Wednesday, November 28, 2012

SOMETHING ENTIRELY DIFFERENT - WINE GIN!


            Alex Villicana is on to something, or at least 94.9% of something. He and his wife Monica started planting their vineyard in 1996 and after an attempt with Chardonnay, they discovered a truism for much of the Paso Robles area - it was too warm at their site, so they grafted over those vines to Rhone varietals.

As every grower or hopeful winery operator knows, they needed a market for the product. Part of the winemaking process often used in the Rhone is the bleeding off of some juice prior to starting fermentation to aid concentration of flavor. As with many agricultural byproducts, finding a use for that excess juice might be a business opportunity. In Villicana's case, this was a significant part of the yield from his available tonnage. Thus was born Re:Find Distillery.

As we all know, the government loves to regulate things. Alcohol is one of its favorites, putting a "sin" tax and lots of rules along every step of the way from production to consumption. Alex discovered a favorable unintended consequence. Wineries are allowed to make brandy from their grapes, with a controlled level of alcohol. As long as the distilled spirit does not reach 95% alcohol, and it is derived from grapes, it is legally a brandy. an allowed use. So, they pull the neutral result of brandy distillation just short of that mark. This can then be treated and aged for flavoring, as has been done for many years with other fruit infused versions of grape based spirits.

Getting the heart of the ethanol fraction of the total alcohols available means a loss of about 50% of the initial volume of juice. The juice is fermented to about 17% before a first run through the condenser, raising the total alcohol to the 40% vicinity but retains the "heads & tails". Those are the unwanted components such as methanol and acetone that bracket the desired neutral spirit. The final distillation completes that separation.

In this case, the resulting spirit is either bottled as a neutral brandy or is flavored with botanicals, much like gin in terms of the end flavor profile, and is sold as a botanical brandy. Voila! It took several years of development and paperwork that led to a 60 gallon copper still, heated by steam, brought over from Germany. After some trial runs, Villicana found that the larger Rhone grapes, when well ripened gave the taste he liked and produced a soft and pleasing beverage. The unflavored version is much like a triple distilled vodka and carries a trace of the fruit onto the palate.

Alex hopes to see a six hundred case level of production soon and sells the result at the winery or on line at refinddistillery.com or check out their wines at villicanawinery.com. The future may hold a rye based offering, growing his own flavoring botanicals at the winery and experimenting with other flavors in the infusions.

Monday, November 5, 2012

TWO MORE SITES OF INTEREST WITH UPCOMING PARTIES!


            Central Coast Garagistes (garagistefestival.com) - This is not quite the same model as the groups dedicated to marketing tasting rooms, direct to consumer and wine club sales. The Festival is really the only "organized" part of the concept. This is the second year of the event, which takes its name from the Bordeaux term (somewhat like garage bands) in the U.S.) for those making small lots of wine in their sheds or cellars. The event, in its second year is held in Paso Robles and proceeds support the Cal Poly SLO wine program.

The founders estimate there are upwards of 200 garagiste style makers on the central coast. This is defined as less than 1,200 case production but many are much smaller. They point out that about sixty percent of the labels in the area have no tasting room and what sales there are come from mailing lists and word of mouth.

Many of the winemakers are actively working at larger wineries and others are growers who want a little wine of their own. They often have access to space and equipment at local wineries rather than slaving away in a cold shack ala France and produce flavorful, well made small lots of artisanal wine that reflects a personal style, lesser known varietals or special terroir.

The Festival is the only public opportunity to try many of these wines, as well as a chance to meet some talented and interesting folks dedicated to their craft. It will be held Saturday and Sunday, November 10th & 11th with a Grand Tasting ($60 with VIP option) at Windfall Farms. Forty eight garagiste labels will be involved. Go to the web site above for details.     

 Monterey Vintners & Growers Association (montereywines.org) – Includes 40 members of the approximately 85 wineries in the county. This is a great source of information on the unique aspects of the AVA (and the various subsets) as well as for travel tips for this very popular area. One feature is "Three Perfect Days" a long weekend type of getaway that is pre-planned to maximize all the area has to offer, including great food, a world class aquarium and lots of delicious wines, spas and a wide selection of lodging options.

On Saturday, November 10 from 1-4 PM, the champions of Monterey Wine Country will host a Party in the Hangar at the Del Monte Aviation Center’s private hangar (at the Monterey Airport) to pour local wines for gourmands and wine lovers who want to experience the essence of this burgeoning California wine region alongside fun, delectable dishes made from locally-sourced ingredients.

A VIP ticket will include early entry, a Riedel tasting glass, and access to an exclusive Bubble Lounge, where Monterey sparkling wines and caviar will be offered. A Sparkling Winemaker Discussion Panel will be hosted by Steve Heimoff, West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Party in the Hangar is touted as an opportunity to witness the exceptional quality and flavors from Monterey Wine Country. The MCVGA, whose members represent nine distinct American Viticulture Areas (AVAs) and forty-two winegrape varietals grown throughout the county. For tickets and details see montereywines.org