Monday, May 20, 2013

THIR(S)TY ONE YEARS OF PASO WINE FEST ©


            The center piece of the Paso Robles Wine Alliance annual event schedule is Wine Fest Weekend, the subject of my posting on March 22. And yesterday (May 18) was the day of the central event, celebrating its thirty first year. It actually out dates Paso Robles becoming designated as an American Viticultural Area by one year. The three day weekend event will be ending as I write this and nearly every winery in the PRWA is offering Fest related specials, as was also done Friday with many winemaker dinners taking place that night as well as the reserve tasting and auction.  Forty two wineries picked a single wine for the tasting, broken into four categories; Library, Reserve, White & Rose and Futures. Several local restaurants provided food to accompany the selected bottlings.

An auction followed the tasting, with a lucky few adding a case of unreleased, rare older vintages or reserve editions to their cellar. Prior to the Saturday Grand Tasting, local winemakers offered a one hour seminar on the Paso Robles AVA. By 11:30, as the seminar ended, the length of the street along the City Park was already filled with main event ticket holders. Those with early (premium level) entry passes anxiously waiting to pick up a glass and looking at the guide map to find their choices among the sixty three wineries pouring samples.

That number represents about one half of the PRWA members, who were also manning their tasting rooms. It is an incredible effort. Many of those pouring were also featuring music or BBQs etc. at the winery as well as taking part of the park tasting. Streets were closed, shuttles run, security team in place, police presence (mild), volunteers taking tickets/checking ID and answering questions, water/bread/cheese stations and the band in place. Also the food trucks and restaurants offering complimentary bites, porta- potties, first aid, information & lost and found booths.

The gates opened at noon but a lot of people had already made new friends while in the line, comparing notes or asking about other's knowledge of their wines of interest. In my case, a future blogger who may move to the area. A new twist this year was placing wineries in areas of the primary style of what they make. Of course many producers offer crossovers of this scheme and blends are popular as well. But, Rhone, Burgundy, Zinfandel, Bordeaux type varietal groups were located to allow you to concentrate on a favorite grape as much as possible without having to wander all over the two square block sized park. People seemed to think it was generally helpful.

My point of entry took me between Zin and Bordeaux areas while those going through the other glass station's route entered via Rhone. In my post mentioned above, I explained how I approach trying to make the best use of more wines than it is possible to taste. I'd noted the wineries I had in mind in the guide and circled them on the map. Some selections were those I've not tasted and others were visits to old friends - I was able to get to about six locations per hour and twenty three total visits. Using the 4S's (sniff, swirl, sip & spit) method (generally), I was able to sample about four dozen wines. My only suggestion here is that there was no standard use of rinse water, dump buckets or spittoons. And many people just don't like the idea of spitting things in public. I guess they didn't play baseball as kids. Nor, luckily, do they indulge in that other favorite past time common in the big league. But I digress.

The only option in many cases was to dump on the grass. The PRWA had promoted, and did a good job of servicing, public purified water stations and asked people to stay hydrated and bring reusable water bottles. I did so and had my own source of rinse/drinking water and support the idea on several levels. The forecast for the day started out with possible 100 degree temperatures. It turned out to be a pleasantly breezy 80 something and the tasting booths generally offered partial shaded areas throughout the day. Still warm for drinking any alcohol and the dehydrating effects it has. I did not see a lot of others with reusable containers but the water stations were used with wine glasses by many.

If you have read my postings in the past, you know my efforts are not geared toward wine rating. I can say that I was highly impressed with both the variations within style and the interesting and very high level of quality of the wines I tasted. Primarily I tasted reds with a refresher white here and there and sticking to one or two  wines per booth. There are a couple of labels I would mention in this case. I'd been impressed the first time I tasted them and this chance didn't change my mind; RN (Roger Nicolas) Estate wines are made by a former chef/restaurateur from France.  His focus is on food friendly wine from Bordeaux style blends, which include Syrah in some wines. They are elegant and lower in alcohol than many wines made on the Central Coast. Hoyt Family Vineyards is another small producer that holds up well across the range it makes. I was drawn to them because of my exposure to wineries in the Malibu area, where they grow their estate Chardonnay. They now have a tasting room in Paso and use local grapes for much of their red production, made by Carol Hoyt.

Also, by luck of where I stood, I was walked through the full range of Niner wines by Amanda Cramer, the winemaker, and the winery's vineyard guru. That included a Grenache rose' in a dry style and a refreshing version of Sauvignon Blanc that were my only samples of those styles for the day. It was nice to see that level of attention to the tasting crowd being paid by top level representatives from the winery. I also caught up with some Aussie friends I'd worked with at another winery and who moved to the new Broken Earth operation a year ago. Winemaker Chris and do-it-all wife Ursula Cameron were at the booth and while catching up, reviewed their latest efforts. Chris has made a lot of well received wines in this and other areas and now has a historic estate property to work with. The Tierra Rejada ranch included one of the first large, modern commercial vineyard planted in the area and provides over 500 acres of Harold Schwartz's original 2,500 acre spread. Schwartz was also one of the founders of the Wine Fest. With enough Petit Verdot to play with, he has done some varietal bottlings, which is not that common. You might enjoy checking them out if you have the opportunity.

Even after the main crowd joined in at 1 PM, the flow was better than I expected. People were polite in taking their sample and standing aside to allow others to access the table and, a few popular brands sometimes a bit crowded, there was little need to wait to make a selection. Plus, the tables were quite well staffed with informed help, so those wanting to linger or discuss did not become a problem. The other interesting thing to me, as I solicited comment from other tasters, was how few people were locals. The younger crowd was often from nearby but the more likely serious wine buyers I met were from Sonoma, Sacramento, LA, Fresno, Bakersfield and several from out of state. They were here, and in hotels and restaurants, for several days and bought tickets for the related events and visited several wineries while here. All good stuff for the area economy.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

A CONCRETE SOLUTION TO WINEMAKING ©


            It has been several weeks since Micah Utter was gracious enough to spend some time with me. I should apologize for taking so long to getting this posted on "Vinewright" but I've been off the grid doing some travel. All I have to say about that is, if you plan to fly - pack a big lunch for all those delayed and cancelled flights.

I recently read about a revival of the use of concrete wine making vessels by some very toney Italian small lot producers. Well, it turns out they aren't the only makers of excellent wines who are riding this wave. Pun intended, since Micah is a surfer who also happens to know a lot about custom shaping of concrete. I heard about him and his Vino Vessel, Inc. (www.vinovessel.com) operation, located on the south side of Paso Robles, during the WiVi trade event that was described here a few articles back.

So, Through the Grapevine sent its intrepid reporter (moi) to get an exclusive on this cutting edge idea. Little did I know that several equally edgy and innovative winemakers have embraced the concept. Small batches of some very nice wines are sleeping peacefully here on the Central Coast and other growing areas, wrapped up like Jimmy Hoffa!

Currently, Vino Vessel has designed and produced forms for eleven various fermenting and storage tanks as an alternative to wood barrels. While not inexpensive (they require extensive design and engineering input), the better oak versions of barrels topped $1,000 each a few years back. Stainless steel storage vats, and certification for fabrication techniques also makes for a serious outlay of capital. You may know that many smaller producers actually rent tank space for storage for larger wineries with excess volume, rather than purchasing those high ticket items. It has been reported that wineries plan to put a large part of winery improvements into increasing that aspect of their facilities in 2013. There are even some tank farms that simply offer a place to keep the juice as a sideline of the wine industry.

Micah's available containers are sized from 70 gallons up to 1,305, coming in an interesting mix of shapes and concepts. The company has the ability to design custom enclosures for nearly any idea with which a winemaker might wish to experiment. But it is hard to imagine a shape or size that isn't available other than bigger versions for larger producers. Examples include a pyramid and the "hippo" model, one of two oval styles, which maximizes the surface area that comes in contact with the wine. Specifically, that relates to skin contact, the more juice surface that is exposed to the cap - primarily grape skins that form a layer when forced to the top of a tank by CO2 during fermentation - the better the extraction of tannin and color. Ideally, if impractical, a large flat shallow pool would work very well.

The hippo idea was the first style built and beta tested by Peachy Canyon and Chronic Cellars in 2007. It required some special engineering, a special formula for the concrete mix and curing process and, inclusion of reinforcing mesh. The result led to new design ideas and sales that have grown to include local wineries such as Linne Calodo, Epoch and Stolpman.

The Vino Vessel allows micro-oxygenation, a neutral (no extraction) flavor component that helps in the expression of the fruit and are easy to clean and sanitize. "There is no food in concrete", Micah quotes one user. Thus, the tanks are not prone to aid unwanted critters making a home in them. Concrete also has excellent thermal retention, avoids hot spots found in some upright styles, offers a slow rise in temperatures and needs no temperature controls such as those on jacketed stainless tanks.

While not in widespread use, use of concrete as a winemaking option is on the rise and works well for small operations and those liking to try new concepts and experiments. If you have the opportunity, try a wine made in a Vino Vessel and see what you think. In Paso Robles one easily found example is the 2011 Viognier at the Peachy Canyon tasting room at W46 and Bethel Rd. You may also inquire at Chronic Cellars if they have a current sample done in a Vino Vessel.

Monday, May 13, 2013

CENTRAL COAST WINE CLASSIC DETAILS ANNOUNCED ©


            Save the dates for a wine weekend at the beaches, July 11-14. In addition to being one of the longest running (29 years) wine fests it boasts the longest title of any wine appreciation function of which I am aware. The San Simeon, Shell Beach & Avila Beach California Central Coast Wine Classic  (or SSSBABCCCWC, for which I offer no acronym) will be taking place from Hearst Castle on the north (opening night dinner Thursday) to inland areas of Edna and Arroyo Grande Valleys (for the Cycling Classic) on Friday. A pre-release barrel tasting, also on Thursday afternoon, will take place at Avila Beach Lighthouse Suites. The San Simeon dining option on the 11th includes six courses prepared by a half-dozen guest chefs from the Central Coast as well as Yosemite's Ahwahnee Hotel.  

The Avila Beach Golf Resort is the central location for many of the tastings and symposium offerings. Dolphin Bay Resort & Spa will be the site of a winemakers dinner, featuring Justin Vineyards' wines on Friday evening. Also on Friday, an outdoor VIP dinner dance, hosted by Napa and Central Coast vintners will be the main draw at Avila Beach Resort. On line information and a full listing of events (www.centralcoastwineclassic.org) is available and advance registration and information is available from Archie McLaren at 805-544-1285 or by email to archie@slonet.org.