Thursday, June 4, 2015

CATCHING UP ©


            There has been so much to write about over the past few weeks there has been no time to actually do the writing. The previous piece about upcoming CABs of Distinction, Paso Robles Wine Fest and the International Chardonnay Symposium have all now taken place and yours truly made them all.

I don't do frequent recaps of done deals but this particular group is worthy of an after action report. Especially if you have not been involved but might wish to consider attendance in the future. The CABs (Cabernet & Bordeaux) event was a two part gathering. The first was a public tasting on the weekend and then a trade and media section on three days the following week. Out of town, I missed the big tasting and the kick off barrel sampling on day one. The feedback on both was positive from a crowd of wine writers, sommeliers, restaurant owners and hospitality types and bloggers with a wine focus. Hopefully this will translate into getting the word out on the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon and related Bordeaux varietals made in the Paso Robles area. SOMM JOURNAL magazine was a major backer of this event (and Chardonnay Symposium below) and imported Court of Master Sommeliers members from around the country. It was interesting to hear how wine list determiners viewed offerings from the Paso region be they in NYC or LA.

Several of the two dozen wineries in the CABs group offered various programs on the final day. I attended a blending at Brecon Estate (http://breconestate.com), aimed at deciding the future bottlings of their Reserve Cabernet and Bordeaux blend. Lucky for me, I was the only one who picked that session. Having done this in the past, getting one on one time with owner/ winemaker Damian Grindley and his wife Amanda, an untitled(?) but busy co-worker was a treat. Working with several selected barrels of Cabernet from the estate and other local growers including some York Mountain AVA juice, we first worked on the Reserve and then added other grapes to the blend. I was especially fond of the Petite Verdot which became a small but important addition to the final product. Great fun, as was trying to decipher English as spoken by a Welshman.

Then it was off to Vina Robles for a comparison of wines coming from the same grape but grown in various vineyards in the sub AVAs. Three each of Cabernet and Petite Verdot, which gave me four different AVA tastes of the later and five of Cabernet plus that from the stand alone York Mountain AVA. Winemaker Kevin Willenborg led us through the comparison. One interesting  comment regarding the Petite Verdot was how higher temperatures in the vineyards being used, vs. Bordeaux, softened the tannins. This made the wine more approachable than the Euro version and more useful for being a larger component of local Bordeaux blends. Our group included retail, publishing and other sommeliers in the mix leading to lively discussion and a nice final experience for CABs week. I look forward to a similar gathering next year.

            Next up, the Paso Robles Wine Fest weekend. This was the 33rd version of this Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance's major annual event. With about 250 participating wineries, there was plenty to do, spread all over the eleven sub-AVAs in the region. Wineries held many special events with food and music to go with your wine. Winemaker dinners at both downtown restaurants and the actual wineries, the Reserve & Grand tastings, educational sessions and auctions were just some of the good times.

After a bit of an organization stumble dealing with crowd control for the main tasting last year, the staff at PRWCA took hard look at prior planning for 2015. I note that part of the issue last year was really those in the crowd, many of whom got into the early entry line without the proper ticket and became a hurdle. Job well done goes to the fix provided. The security team vetted the tickets, did the purse search etc. whenever you arrived and used a simple stamp instead of wrist bands. Versus the half hour it took to gain entry to the park last year, the solution provided a five or fewer minutes from gate to wine in a glass. Brilliant!

Other new and improved features were expansion of the space, moving the music stage, food trucks inside the venue and a dedicated picnic area. A huge hit was the pre-packed lunch offerings from several local restaurants. For $10 you got a complete to go (each provider had a set item you could review) and a souvenir "keep cool" carry bag. I was surprised to see how many people took advantage of the idea and surveyed several of them. Thumbs up from all. See you at the 34th next spring and hoping the weather remains as perfect as this version.

            Last in this triple play were three days spread over the Five Cities area, along the coast, south of San Luis Obispo. There was a tie in to local government who helped make the event a showcase for various resorts and local chefs. The International Chardonnay Symposium was also part of the SOMM JOURNAL relaunch effort and brought in nearly twenty members of the Court of Master Sommeliers. While most were from well known California operations, some diversity by way of Montana and Colorado was also in the mix. They were put to work on panels, judging and yeoman's efforts in controlling the wine service at the dining events. 

It is interesting that the Central Coast sandwiches the Rhone, Zin and Cabernet climate of Paso Robles with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of Monterey and Santa Barbara regions. And south San Luis Obispo County is closer to Santa Barbara in that regard. Pardon my generalization. If you aren't familiar with south Monterey County, it ends only about 15 miles north of Paso. There are huge areas of vines from there north to King City, easily seen from Hwy. 101, especially on the Lockwood mesa. But no wineries until Greenfield. The better known Monterey wines come from further north, along the River Road wine trail and Carmel Valley. In terms of wineries, Monterey has far fewer than the cousins to the south. But there is a lot of juice coming from the area, including major players such as Lohr, Wente and Gallo for example.

The point of the above is that Chardonnay is the most popular varietal grown and sold. It deserves to have a focused event. One that isn't just about the area but inclusive for comparison. This event does that, as does the World of Pinot held in Santa Barbara due to the growth of, and interest in, wines from that grape. Paso's interest is also well represented by the Rhone Rangers events, a strong garagiste presence in those wines and representation at events like the Wine Fest discussed above. The fine Zinfandels from the area have that showpiece as well. Adding the CABs group also serves Paso's terroir well and will hopefully grow.

So, I see good things for the future of the Chardonnay Symposium. It was well organized, despite the challenges of a moving feast of locations and program options. Held in an area that is increasingly tourist oriented, it adds a nice component to the mix of events. And it fits in well with the Pebble Beach wine event to the north and Sunset Magazine's  Savor event. Both of which include the broader variety of wines from the region.  Pebble Beach also goes into comparisons with the best of Napa, Sonoma and others.

A nice mix of tastings, educational panels and a crowd size that provided access to sixty Chardonnay producers, up close and personal, split over two days of tastings. Plus after hours dinners and, in this case, a lunch with the retrospective tasting of Mt. Eden & Hanzell made for an experience I recommend you put on your wine calendar for 2016.

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

FUN WITH FACTOIDS ©


            In case you were wondering, there is a lot of wine and winery growth going on all over the country. The gorilla in this room is Gallo. In 2014 the 70 brands that make up their portfolio saw 80M cases sold. Many to people who have no idea their fave beverage is a Gallo product. The company has always shown smart and aggressive marketing skills. But the current success is partly due to taking the pulse of those seeking value for every day consumption and responding to it. From a quality and flavor standpoint, some of these products are very attractive to the general public. Gallo has also trended a bit to the upscale market, including the recent acquisition of the J label sparkling wine.

            Also growing are the number of virtual wineries. Not of the video game universe, these are labels that represent winemakers who operate under the umbrella of another brands bonded premise. This is a method that has attractive features for small volume wines. They avoid the hassle and expense of having a government bond for the storage facility and can spare themselves the high capital demands of seldom used (but expensive) equipment. It is a win for the bonded winery as well, which can charge for the use and get revenue from such things as available empty tankage, bottling line and warehouse space.

Virtual wineries make up 18% of the U.S. producers but more than 1/3rd of those in California. The total number of wineries (including non-grape producers) grew by about 7% last year depending on various data sources. With California boasting nearly four thousand wineries now the state is home to 47% of those in the entire country. Add the over 1,300 in Washington and Oregon and you see the effect the industry has on the west coast. With 525 new wineries opening last year, the total number in the U.S, is now 8,287.

There are wineries in every state in the union. Texas is now 6th with 215 and Hawaii, with 4, is ahead of last place Mississippi which has only 2. Bet you wouldn't have thought Alaska is at #45 with six. Arizona and New Mexico both have 48 bonded wineries. But those clever virtual guys and gals have 15 in AZ and there are zero in NM.

One last fact; in the annual list of Ten Hot Brands as published by Wine Business Monthly, the Central Coast took one-fifth of this year's listing. These were Paso based Halter Ranch and Monterey County's McIntyre. Congrats!

            I should mention that the eleven sub viticultural areas now in the Paso Robles AVA are now label legal. However, you are not going to see many of them on store shelves for a couple of years. Most wineries are holding off until the 2015 vintage is in bottle and some are going even more slowly. More on this can be found in an archived article.