To continue Adam Lazarre's
presentation, four wines were poured. Two were large production and the others
were his own label. A 2014 Sea Monster Eclectic White blend is
"built" for Whole Foods. There were 6,000 cases made, grapes coming
mostly from the Santa Ynez AVA and unoaked. Eclectic is an apt description for
this $15 bottle that includes Viognier, Riesling, Grenache Blanc, Gewürztraminer
and (what the heck) a kiss of Chard. It worked, go figure.
A little easier
to figure was the other large volume offering. A commonly seen combo in this
area, it was an 82% Petite Sirah and 18% Syrah blend. There were 16,000 cases
made for a $14 retail and the grape sources were mostly Livermore with some N.
Santa Barbara fruit as well. The wine is a 2014 Cycles Gladiator Petite Sirah,
Central Coast by label. It sounded like a California appellation might be
appropriate in this case since Livermore is an AVA on its own. Both regions
provide cool climate versions of the fruit and perhaps I didn't correctly hear
his breakdown.
The idea was to
compare and contrast mass produced wines from his own label. The costs
addressed in the first part of this posting aside, there were a couple of major
differences between his small lot wines and the ones above. The wines were 2014 Lazarre Chardonnay, Santa
Maria Valley, of which only 175 cases were produced at a shelf price $22. A
more than fair price point for the quality of the wine and considering the
tonnage cost of Chard from that region. His focus is on Pinot Noir, which was
poured as a 2012 version from the Central Coast appellation. Only 480 cases
were made for sale at $36 and sourced from Santa Maria and Santa Lucia Highlands.
It was more an old world style in look and on the palate than many of the
somewhat massive Pinots seen from Santa Barbara and parts of Monterey County.
His comparison
dealt with knowing the vineyard and the fruit, being involved with picking
decisions, use of oak, smaller containers for fermentation. And, that the
winemaker was personally in touch, on a daily basis, with the progress of the
product. Plus the need for work arounds for things as simple as not having a
bottle line and the toys while producing a superior product. Yet even the Pinot
Noir was at the low end of Central Coast
pricing for the variety.
The second
session of the day was called Illegal Blends. The being based on the
restrictive laws seen in many growing regions in the world as to what grapes
can go into a bottle. The garagistes can play it anyway they want. And that is
one reason we get to taste Albarino, Counoise, Tannat at this event.
I would point
out that all the wines poured were rated Best of Class or received 91 or more
ratings from publications or competitions.
Erick Allen of Ascension
Cellars poured 2015 "Silver" Blanc. Made at Cass (Paso Robles) and
using SIP certified Chardonnay from Castoro Cellars, Marsanne, Roussanne and
Viognier were also in this blend. The Rhone varietals were estate grown and
both his wines were 13.9% alcohol. While the wine was light it offered more
body on the palate than I expected. There were 465 cases at $36. The second
pour was the 2013 "Soul Shaker" of which only 135 cases were made,
priced at $66. It is his best selling wine and the fruit is sourced from Cass.
It is 73 % Bordeaux blend - 40/20/13% Cab, Merlot and Petit Verdot with the
remainder being Syrah. For the Paso area, these types of blends are fairly
common, having mixed results as they combine "illegal" wines. It is
an interesting experiment that may need some familiarization tasting to those
not used to what Syrah can do to the more familiar combination.
Brian Brown of
ONX Wines poured 2014 "Mad Crush", a $48 wine with 561 cases being
made. There is a bit of something for everyone in this blend of 45% Grenache
melded with nearly 1/5th Tempranillo and Malbec and 9% each Mourvedre &
Zin. I found it very fruit forward with an evident backbone of tannin that
should balance out as it sees more time in the bottle.
Steve Lemley from
Pulchella Winery showed "The Awakening" 2014, an
"unplanned" blend of which 125 cases were produced, priced at $45 and
having a 15.7% alcohol level. Very deep in color, the wine is 66% Tannat, 34%
Petite Sirah. Another example of a grape that is just gaining a foothold and
another that was a standard for many years and fell out of favor for a while,
now making a comeback, being used. Only the garagistes are playing on that
field and making for one of the most interesting gatherings of the year. Can't
wait for #7!