Thursday, January 16, 2014

PASO CHAPTER HOSTS RHONE RANGERS EVENT


            The Central Coast is a hot bed of wines made from the many varietals that are made into wines from France's Rhone River Valley. Paso Robles boasts the largest chapter of the Rhone Rangers organization with about four dozen members who will offer a day long combination of education, dining and tasting on Sunday, February 16. The site is Broken Earth winery on East Highway 46. Details are available on line (pasorobles.rhonerangers.com).

A seminar on Rhone Essentials will start the day at 10:30, tickets are $85 and include the education, lunch to follow and the main tasting event. Tasting only tickets are also available for $35 and can be purchased on line. The seminar/lunch is limited (200 tickets) and has consistently sold out well in advance. The seminar will show nine major wine types with wine makers from as many wineries presenting information on various varietal and blended wines from seven or more of the grape types grown in the Paso Robles area.

Lunch is catered by well respected "Chef Jeff" (Scott), a popular local vendor who does many winery dining events throughout the year. Winemakers, owners and managers will participate in passing around a variety of local Rhone style offerings to match with the food and dining with the attendees.

The main tasting, featuring approximately 150 wines, begins at 1:30 and is capped at 400 tickets, meaning 200 available after the seminar participants are included. If you like Rhone wines, that should be your call to immediate action! The tasting includes a silent auction and ends at 3:30. Rhone Rangers is a non-profit and the sales support their scholarship fund.

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance Sets Fest Dates


Here are the dates to mark on your calendar for this year's schedule of Paso Robles Wine Country events:

Vintage Paso: Zinfandel and other Wild Wines, March 14 - 16
Enjoy a zinful weekend with activities including winemaker dinners, exclusive Zinfandel tastings, winery and vineyard tours and so much more!

Wine Festival, May 16 - 18
This marquee tasting event offers the opportunity to taste Paso Robles wine in the charming Downtown City Park, complemented by local epicurean delights.

Harvest Wine Weekend, October 17-19

Wineries celebrate the beginning of the new vintage by inviting you to their individual events that are as diverse as the wines themselves.

Monday, December 9, 2013

TALKING TURKEY PART 2 - LEFTOVERS! ©


            WOW, despite over one thousand grape varietals being grown in Turkey, a very small amount actually becomes wine. Alcohol consumption is low, as would be expected. Yet this where wine was first made. Evidence of wine-making equipment found there may be from 4000 BC.

The Ottoman rulers were not pleased with wine but when their empire collapsed after World War I, the new Turkish president founded the first commercial winery, Doluca, in 1925. Since then the industry has built up slowly, with mostly larger companies but now include a tiny group of small volume wineries. Wonder what the Turkish word for "garagiste" might be.

The majority of wines are produced in eastern parts of the country, near Greece and along the Aegean sea or on the Mediterranean coast. Climates vary greatly from the cooler coastal regions to those inland areas, which are much drier and warmer. Thus, the variance in styles can be great.

A significant number of the major producers are vinifera and have plenty of choices in what to cultivate for wine.. European grapes (or actually those born here and migrating west) are on the rise and made as single varietal styles. More often they are included as blending components. The most popular local grapes have names I couldn't pronounce and have no type face that allows the correct symbols for spelling!

If I actually find a source for something to taste, I'll report back. Also, Turkey has a national spirit called Raki often served cold with meals. This is a pomace based (think grapa) distillate flavored with anise seed. That might be easier to locate and to compare with Sambuca.

Saturday, November 30, 2013

TALKING TURKEY ©


            No, not the bird on the table but the country formerly known as the Ottoman Empire. In a recent study of wine grapes under cultivation world-wide, Spain had the number one spot with 13% of the total acres/hectares planted round the globe. Surprisingly to many wine consumers in the U.S., less than half of that is grown in America. That despite a much larger land mass and wine now being made in all but one state in the nation.

The fact is that we are only number six on the list with 6%, just behind TURKEY with 7%. Who'da thunk it? More land is dedicated to wine grapes there than in Germany, Austria, Portugal, South Africa or Australia to name just a few countries known for wine production and consumed around the world. With over thirty years of background in the wine trade or those related to it, I have never actually seen a bottle of Turkish wine but have had many from the neighboring Greece. The search is on, but I'm curious what the market is

With a population about 20% that of the U.S., primarily Sunni Muslims with a large Kurdish influence, this would not instinctively make one think, "World Wine Power House." Yet there they are, right behind number four China (8%) and the more likely sounding Italy (10%) and France (11%).

My mission is to find some Chardonnay de Constantinople or Istanbulian ice wine in time for next year's Thanksgiving dinner. Followed by taffy for desert, served with strong coffee and those killer Turkish tobacco Balkan cigarettes. Well, maybe not the last part. I'll keep you posted!

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

PENNSYLVANIA- HOME OF AMERICAN WINE? ©


            I've been neglecting this blog due to a family issue that required me to spend some time in the Keystone Commonwealth. Originally from the west side of Penn's Woods, I never spent much time there but had seen some trade articles about the resurgence of wine making in the area. I was curious to see what they were doing back that way. A quick net search (pennsylvaniawine.com) gave me an idea of who was making what in the area I was visiting and I picked out the nearby La Casa Narcisi for a taste test.

As it turned out, one of the Narcisi family members was involved in financial services in the Bay Area and took his winnings back to PA to help grow their wine business. The facility would look at home out here and includes outside covered areas and gardens, a large restaurant with upper level private party area, comfortable tasting room and sizeable gift shop. If they could have received permission to build it here in California, the probable cost makes the son's return to his roots a sound decision.

About half the counties in Pennsylvania have wineries and the state Wine Marketing and Research Board is doing a good job of promoting and improving the product. They were instrumental in developing nine "wine trail" tours in the state and an equal number of areas with concentrations of wineries. A brochure with details and maps is available via the website above.

Despite prohibition, so called Blue Laws and a sometimes heavy handed State Liquor Control Board (sales in state run stores only for liquor and wine), the history of wine making goes back 300 years. William Penn himself brought European varietals to the area and planted a vineyard in 1683. In 1787 the first successful commercial winery in the U.S. was operating near Philadelphia. Shareholders included Alexander Hamilton, Aaron Burr, Johns Hopkins and Robert Morris. Not a shabby start to the nation's first wine club! Eventually, wine was being made in every county in the state. Even a German religious group was running a winery with a 30,000 gallon cellar just north of Pittsburg by the early 1800s. Nearly 200,000 gallons of wine was being made in Pennsylvania by 1900.

By the end of the Volstead Act, the industry was in ruins and the state, while allowing wineries, only allowed sales through the stores. Those running that operation were not wine knowledgeable and until not so long ago, a bottle of better wine was not to be seen on the shelves. Thankfully, a few growers in the wine friendly growing area near Lake Erie grouped together to push for less restrictive laws in the 1960s. By the end of the decade the Limited Winery Act was passed. Using only grapes grown in the state, wineries could produce up to 50,000 gallons and sell direct to consumers, hotels, restaurants & clubs or the Control Board stores.

Much like our California tale, 1969 was a watershed year and the first two wineries were licensed. The current Pennsylvania Wine brochure lists 153 licensed wineries, half of which have been started since 1990. Many of them are not estate wineries but purchase grapes or juice from the areas that have the soils and weather to support vineyards. Grapes familiar to our area include Viognier, Syrah, Cab, Pinot, Dolcetto and eight other noble varieties. Five native grapes, such as Catawba and ten hybrids - among them Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir are being grown. Many wineries concentrate on fruit wines and sell related products as well.

So, how are they? I tasted only four wines at one winery but I wish I'd had more time to investigate further. First off was a 2012 Chardonnay made from vineyards in the NE part of the state. Lightly oaked and 12.5% alcohol, it was nicely balanced, lighter than local versions (not a bad thing), crisp with a distinctly varietal nose accenting the fruit and having a good linger to the finish.

The 2012 Merlot followed and sourced from the same area. Moderately deep cherry/cranberry color with 13.5% alcohol, clean and bright and very leggy. The finish was a bit short but highlighted the fruit and made for a very drinkable wine. All these wines retailed for under $20 by the way. The Cabernet Sauvignon was also a 2012 and had a 13.3 level of alcohol. Hints of berry fruit in the nose and similar color as the Merlot, youthful tannins drove the taste at this time. I'd like to try it again in a couple of years.

I finished with Traminette, a Traminer hybrid. It turned out to be a nice surprise and I think it could become popular in a wider market. The aroma was very Gewurz and pleasant. I expected similar flavor but (as described by Dorothy my tasting hostess) it has a great backbone with balanced acid and hints of grapefruit, not unlike some Sauvignon Blancs. Fun summer lunch wine or for general sipping, excellent value and (here) a conversation piece to fool your friends.

I suggest that if travel takes you out that way, find time to try some local flavor.

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

CELEBRATE HARVEST WITH PRWCA WINE WEEKEND ©


            The last of the annual three major Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance will be over the weekend of October 18-20th. Visit wineries that are members of the Alliance to enjoy the spirit of another vintage in the works and special activities.

Rather than a set-piece tasting event, the format of Wine Weekend is meant to have you check out the wineries and tasting rooms on your own pace and schedule. The PRWCA affiliated wineries list their plans on the PRWINE website and you can use that to plan your own special weekend. From high profile dinners to many musical performances, BBQs, home baked pizza, you are sure to find something for your taste and budget. Many participants have special pricing on wines that weekend. Events have various pricing for each winery and wine club members and general public. See prwine.com for details.

Monday, September 23, 2013

WATER WARS BECOME SOUR GRAPES ©


            Well, well, well has become the pun of the day in Paso Robles. In a response to a long standing issue (throughout the west) of more people and business in a region that is arid much of the year and seeing a multi-year drought, San Luis Obispo County supervisors voted quickly last recently to fix the problem. Quickly is also a word in doubt here. The meeting that finally ended in a unanimous vote to pass an "Urgency" ordinance took nearly thirteen hours. One might question the actual urgency as the weeks long upsurge of public comment, often contentious, made it to the table in a flurry of good intentions that something needed done. But did it? Is the real issue turning water into wine or should that be whine?

There is well founded doubt that the measure passed - basically a two year (semi) moratorium on new well development - meets the test of urgency status. To many, the verdict was returned before the case was heard and legal action to block the result is considered likely. Many feel (and data seems to support) that the problem calls more for local action than a one size fits all county wide approach. Some support water districts in the limited areas of actual concern. That also has some problematic concerns; cost, power of larger owners and administration among them.

An underlying cause is a long standing and in some cases very deep rift between pre and post winery era residents of the area. There is no doubt that wine has been the driving economic engine of the county, especially "north" county (above the pass known as Cuesta Grade) and the rural western parts of SLO County. Much of that land was sparse cattle range or used for irrigated crops such as sugar beets and alfalfa.  When grape growing became a more profitable use of their property, many turned to growing wine grapes or sold their land to commercial winery operations. It is the second use that is  central to the current kerfuffle.

Not to over simplify, the large concentration of wineries around Paso Robles are split in a couple of ways. There are (Hwy 46) groups on the east and west sides of town. There are more on the west but those on the east side tend to be larger. The land is rolling pasture and lends itself to larger parcels but is water poor. Growers on the west side tend to higher yields per acre, more mechanized production methods and sell a lot of the grapes and juice to outsiders - large case production wineries. More than half juice produced in the county goes somewhere else.

West siders tend to be much smaller operations, estate style growers who produce smaller lots of wine and sell bottles direct to consumers rather than through the wholesale distribution chain. They support hands on growing methods, biodynamic techniques, low yields and are frequently dry farmed. They are also normally more expensive, sometimes considerably so. It is up to the consumer to determine the value but realistically the economics of two tons per acre vs. five makes it necessary.

East siders are more prone to drip irrigation both from necessity and to support larger crops. They also need water for frost protection. California has an unusual system of water allocation which I'm told rests on old Spanish law that was used in early days of the state. Basically, what is under your land is yours. Typically, the old timers had fairly shallow wells to support stock and residential use. Those irrigating crops might just drill more wells where they planted.

Without a lesson in geology, the available water in this area is part of the Salinas river system, which runs underground even in dry years. But there are also, in the larger region considered the water basin, many levels of trapped water in lenses. It is not one big puddle and there are many spots where the water is not so good. There are a lot of sulfur springs and other unwanted (for home use) minerals and general hardness. The bigger operations just drill down 1,000' or more, often using perforated pipe gathering whatever is there all the way down. For frost (and fire) protection they often install large holding ponds as well.

A recent 700 acre planting with such holding ponds combined with a few people, mostly in a hot, dry pocket known for low water availability, claiming their wells had gone dry. Many of those were shallow and over twenty five years old and there is a multi-year ongoing drought in the area. That aside, the argument became one of whose straw was in whose milkshake. Despite little evidence that the problem was widespread in the county as a whole, the Supervisors jumped to act in a manner that would affect everyone, even where no evidence of a problem existed.

Add to that the political division of the county, the north being more conservative and the south thus being "left leaning academic pinkos" and a current split in said politics of two from each group on the board with one open seat from a normally Democratic district. Stir in the concept that those representing the south county (by those in the north) are of the ilk that insists the government can and should solve all problems. Then add a pinch of who those urging a water district, thus taxes and fees, might have motivation driven by the dreaded outsiders (corporate, non-resident vineyard owners) rather than the local little guys.

The cherry on the top of all that is that the current unpopular outsider is the one that bought Justin winery and plans to use the above mentioned 700 acres to build that brand. Not only that, he lives in LA(!), is very successful in agribusiness and controls a lot of central valley water. AND he and his wife own Fiji Water, Pom juices, citrus operations and another winery. Certainly he deserves at least a tsk-tsk if not a wrist slap if you side with "wineries are ruining our quality of life" group. To the southern faction these outsiders are known as patrons of the arts.

The northern faction is not terribly fond of the Board of Supervisors generally held views or actions such as a ban on plastic bags for groceries. So, in the process of complaining about the water problem, and the Board taking notice, they are now in the position of needing to wait for two years to file for a permit to drill a new well if theirs go bad. Unless they are in the existing permit pipeline.

To further hoist themselves on their own petard, if their well does go dry they will need to truck in water (expensively) for basic needs. That includes a required compliance with state mandated rural fire protection and their own property insurance. Without such compliance, they would be liable to property seizure for not providing available on-site water to aid Cal-Fire if needed. Nor could they sell their property if the buyer could not obtain insurance due to lack of available water unless they bore the expense of outside water sources.

An unfortunate sidebar on this is some have claimed the inventory of dried up wells is incomplete as many didn't report them. They feared insurance and fire safety would become an issue, some claiming financial hardship in drilling a new well. Short sighted thinking at best if a fire were to take place, likely ending the lifestyle they were trying to protect.