Alex Villicana is on to something, or
at least 94.9% of something. He and his wife Monica started planting their
vineyard in 1996 and after an attempt with Chardonnay, they discovered a truism
for much of the Paso Robles area - it was too warm at their site, so they
grafted over those vines to Rhone varietals.
As every grower or hopeful winery operator knows, they
needed a market for the product. Part of the winemaking process
often used in the Rhone is the bleeding off of some juice prior to starting
fermentation to aid concentration of flavor. As with many agricultural
byproducts, finding a use for that excess juice might be a business
opportunity. In Villicana's case, this was a significant part of the yield from
his available tonnage. Thus was born Re:Find Distillery.
As we all know, the government loves to regulate things.
Alcohol is one of its favorites, putting a "sin" tax and lots of
rules along every step of the way from production to consumption. Alex discovered
a favorable unintended consequence. Wineries are allowed to make brandy from
their grapes, with a controlled level of alcohol. As long as the distilled
spirit does not reach 95% alcohol, and it is derived from grapes, it is legally a
brandy. an allowed use. So, they pull the neutral
result of brandy distillation just short of that mark. This can then be treated
and aged for flavoring, as has been done for many years with other fruit
infused versions of grape based spirits.
Getting the heart of the ethanol fraction of the total
alcohols available means a loss of about 50% of the initial volume of juice.
The juice is fermented to about 17% before a first run through the condenser,
raising the total alcohol to the 40% vicinity but retains the "heads &
tails". Those are the unwanted components such as methanol and acetone
that bracket the desired neutral spirit. The final distillation completes that
separation.
In this case, the resulting spirit is either
bottled as a neutral brandy or is flavored with botanicals, much like gin in
terms of the end flavor profile, and is sold as a botanical brandy. Voila!
It took several years of development and paperwork that led to a 60 gallon
copper still, heated by steam, brought over from Germany. After some trial runs,
Villicana found that the larger Rhone grapes, when well ripened gave the taste
he liked and produced a soft and pleasing beverage. The unflavored version is
much like a triple distilled vodka and carries a trace of the fruit onto the
palate.
Alex hopes to see a six hundred case level of production
soon and sells the result at the winery or on line at refinddistillery.com or
check out their wines at villicanawinery.com. The future may hold a rye based
offering, growing his own flavoring botanicals at the winery and experimenting
with other flavors in the infusions.
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