As mentioned a few postings back, the spring edition of VINO magazine continued its Rock Star
Winemakers theme at a roll out tasting for the newest issue. The participating
wineries offered a look at a wide variety of Paso geographic locations, from
the beach town of Cayucos to the NW hills, the 46 W corridor and about as far east
as wineries get plus a downtown tasting room and a winery so small, it doesn't
have one. Different grapes, styles and terroir were well represented. Due to
the length of this post, it comes in two parts with three wineries in each.
Unfortunately, Amy Butler of Ranchero
Cellars was not able to make the tasting. A Kern County lady,
she attended UC Davis and worked in Napa/Sonoma for five years after
graduation. Moving to Paso Robles in 200, Amy became the initial winemaker at
Edward Sellers in 2004, where she remained (and gathered awards) for six years.
Sinking cash and "sweat equity" into Ranchero, she now has her own
label - if that's the right word for a 400 case production level - and is an
active garagiste. Her work with that group earned her their Spirit award for
2012. For more about the movement see a couple of recent past posts on this
blog. Amy does Rhone varietals at the rancho and also consults for other
wineries in the Paso area.
Kevin Jussila was another featured winemaker having a timing
conflict with the event. He operates the Kukkula Winery
for a financial client/friend/angel investor, along with his wife Paula.
Fortunately, I met them early in the 2012 harvest as they were opening the eye
catching tasting room to the public. Perched high on a hillside, way out on
Chimney Rock Road, it can be seen from some distance and has amazing views and
spectacular architecture. Kevin is no wine nimrod with a dream, he's been
making small (like 65 cases a year) lots of wine under the Jussila label for
nearly two decades. Good enough to make it to some high end wine lists, it also
caught the attention of some friends including one willing to help bring
Kukkula to fruition.
His interest in locating to Paso Robles was an odd piece of
synergism. The Jussilas met the owner of Chateau de Beaucastel, a partner in
local winery Tablas Creek. That venture originally was aimed at providing
nursery stock for other wineries and Kukkula became a customer for their
vineyard cuttings. The name, if you're curious, is Finnish for "high
place" and not to be confused with the (long ago) TV dragon puppet of
similar name - if much different pronunciation.
During the upcoming (former post for details) Paso Robles Wine
Alliance organized Zinfandel Weekend - often referred to as Zin Fest - Kukkula
will be open from 11 to 5:30, Friday thru' Sunday, March 15-17th. Their feature
offering for the event includes lagniappe (little something) two ways. Both in
the Creole food sense and their same-term Zinfandel blend. Pre-release wines
from 2011 will be available for tasting as well as special pricing on Lagniappe
wine. The winery also offers lunch, from their own kitchen with wine pairings
at menu pricing on an ongoing basis.
Next up, Parrish
Family Vineyard, represented by Cecily Parrish Ray (winery GM)
and husband & assistant winemaker, Ethan Ray. The family is deeply rooted
in the area. Owner David Parrish's grandfather was asked, by the founder of the
Atascadero Colony in 1925, to come out and see how grapes would fare here. They
must have done pretty well since he planted 540 acres. One claim to family fame
is having Atascadero PO Box #1 been given to Earl Henderson, the grandfather. David's
family, with seven boys, lived in Woodland and was a prime labor source for
Grandpa!
Another graduate of the Davis program and marrying wife
Lynn, he took advantage of the trend to improve vineyard management, via
multi-tiered wire trestles, with his own invention of a special trellising
system. That turned into a profitable venture as many vineyards were converting
to methods allowing better quality fruit and yield techniques from the exposure
to sunlight and heat control provided by trellised vines.
That part of a vineyard development business remains but he
eventually planted acreage in Creston after moving to the area in 1994. By 2005
Parrish was producing wines, including some highly regarded Cabernet Sauvignon.
Parrish strives for identifiable characteristics of the grape to be at the
front of the flavor profile and uses descriptors, such as Silken for label
names. You can enjoy them at the downtown Paso tasting room, designed by Lynn.
Soon, however, you will be able to do that at another of her efforts; a new
tasting room is being built in Adelaida, along with more vineyards. Music, a
central part of David's life will certainly continue to be a feature of the
tasting room. Cecily mentioned the winery is part of a new Paso Cab Collective.
I'll get details.
For "Grow Zinfully Wild" (the Fest theme) weekend,
Parrish will be open from 1 - 6 PM and pairing flights of wine with both cheese
and cupcakes on all three days.
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