Monday, December 9, 2013

TALKING TURKEY PART 2 - LEFTOVERS! ©


            WOW, despite over one thousand grape varietals being grown in Turkey, a very small amount actually becomes wine. Alcohol consumption is low, as would be expected. Yet this where wine was first made. Evidence of wine-making equipment found there may be from 4000 BC.

The Ottoman rulers were not pleased with wine but when their empire collapsed after World War I, the new Turkish president founded the first commercial winery, Doluca, in 1925. Since then the industry has built up slowly, with mostly larger companies but now include a tiny group of small volume wineries. Wonder what the Turkish word for "garagiste" might be.

The majority of wines are produced in eastern parts of the country, near Greece and along the Aegean sea or on the Mediterranean coast. Climates vary greatly from the cooler coastal regions to those inland areas, which are much drier and warmer. Thus, the variance in styles can be great.

A significant number of the major producers are vinifera and have plenty of choices in what to cultivate for wine.. European grapes (or actually those born here and migrating west) are on the rise and made as single varietal styles. More often they are included as blending components. The most popular local grapes have names I couldn't pronounce and have no type face that allows the correct symbols for spelling!

If I actually find a source for something to taste, I'll report back. Also, Turkey has a national spirit called Raki often served cold with meals. This is a pomace based (think grapa) distillate flavored with anise seed. That might be easier to locate and to compare with Sambuca.

Saturday, November 30, 2013

TALKING TURKEY ©


            No, not the bird on the table but the country formerly known as the Ottoman Empire. In a recent study of wine grapes under cultivation world-wide, Spain had the number one spot with 13% of the total acres/hectares planted round the globe. Surprisingly to many wine consumers in the U.S., less than half of that is grown in America. That despite a much larger land mass and wine now being made in all but one state in the nation.

The fact is that we are only number six on the list with 6%, just behind TURKEY with 7%. Who'da thunk it? More land is dedicated to wine grapes there than in Germany, Austria, Portugal, South Africa or Australia to name just a few countries known for wine production and consumed around the world. With over thirty years of background in the wine trade or those related to it, I have never actually seen a bottle of Turkish wine but have had many from the neighboring Greece. The search is on, but I'm curious what the market is

With a population about 20% that of the U.S., primarily Sunni Muslims with a large Kurdish influence, this would not instinctively make one think, "World Wine Power House." Yet there they are, right behind number four China (8%) and the more likely sounding Italy (10%) and France (11%).

My mission is to find some Chardonnay de Constantinople or Istanbulian ice wine in time for next year's Thanksgiving dinner. Followed by taffy for desert, served with strong coffee and those killer Turkish tobacco Balkan cigarettes. Well, maybe not the last part. I'll keep you posted!

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

PENNSYLVANIA- HOME OF AMERICAN WINE? ©


            I've been neglecting this blog due to a family issue that required me to spend some time in the Keystone Commonwealth. Originally from the west side of Penn's Woods, I never spent much time there but had seen some trade articles about the resurgence of wine making in the area. I was curious to see what they were doing back that way. A quick net search (pennsylvaniawine.com) gave me an idea of who was making what in the area I was visiting and I picked out the nearby La Casa Narcisi for a taste test.

As it turned out, one of the Narcisi family members was involved in financial services in the Bay Area and took his winnings back to PA to help grow their wine business. The facility would look at home out here and includes outside covered areas and gardens, a large restaurant with upper level private party area, comfortable tasting room and sizeable gift shop. If they could have received permission to build it here in California, the probable cost makes the son's return to his roots a sound decision.

About half the counties in Pennsylvania have wineries and the state Wine Marketing and Research Board is doing a good job of promoting and improving the product. They were instrumental in developing nine "wine trail" tours in the state and an equal number of areas with concentrations of wineries. A brochure with details and maps is available via the website above.

Despite prohibition, so called Blue Laws and a sometimes heavy handed State Liquor Control Board (sales in state run stores only for liquor and wine), the history of wine making goes back 300 years. William Penn himself brought European varietals to the area and planted a vineyard in 1683. In 1787 the first successful commercial winery in the U.S. was operating near Philadelphia. Shareholders included Alexander Hamilton, Aaron Burr, Johns Hopkins and Robert Morris. Not a shabby start to the nation's first wine club! Eventually, wine was being made in every county in the state. Even a German religious group was running a winery with a 30,000 gallon cellar just north of Pittsburg by the early 1800s. Nearly 200,000 gallons of wine was being made in Pennsylvania by 1900.

By the end of the Volstead Act, the industry was in ruins and the state, while allowing wineries, only allowed sales through the stores. Those running that operation were not wine knowledgeable and until not so long ago, a bottle of better wine was not to be seen on the shelves. Thankfully, a few growers in the wine friendly growing area near Lake Erie grouped together to push for less restrictive laws in the 1960s. By the end of the decade the Limited Winery Act was passed. Using only grapes grown in the state, wineries could produce up to 50,000 gallons and sell direct to consumers, hotels, restaurants & clubs or the Control Board stores.

Much like our California tale, 1969 was a watershed year and the first two wineries were licensed. The current Pennsylvania Wine brochure lists 153 licensed wineries, half of which have been started since 1990. Many of them are not estate wineries but purchase grapes or juice from the areas that have the soils and weather to support vineyards. Grapes familiar to our area include Viognier, Syrah, Cab, Pinot, Dolcetto and eight other noble varieties. Five native grapes, such as Catawba and ten hybrids - among them Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir are being grown. Many wineries concentrate on fruit wines and sell related products as well.

So, how are they? I tasted only four wines at one winery but I wish I'd had more time to investigate further. First off was a 2012 Chardonnay made from vineyards in the NE part of the state. Lightly oaked and 12.5% alcohol, it was nicely balanced, lighter than local versions (not a bad thing), crisp with a distinctly varietal nose accenting the fruit and having a good linger to the finish.

The 2012 Merlot followed and sourced from the same area. Moderately deep cherry/cranberry color with 13.5% alcohol, clean and bright and very leggy. The finish was a bit short but highlighted the fruit and made for a very drinkable wine. All these wines retailed for under $20 by the way. The Cabernet Sauvignon was also a 2012 and had a 13.3 level of alcohol. Hints of berry fruit in the nose and similar color as the Merlot, youthful tannins drove the taste at this time. I'd like to try it again in a couple of years.

I finished with Traminette, a Traminer hybrid. It turned out to be a nice surprise and I think it could become popular in a wider market. The aroma was very Gewurz and pleasant. I expected similar flavor but (as described by Dorothy my tasting hostess) it has a great backbone with balanced acid and hints of grapefruit, not unlike some Sauvignon Blancs. Fun summer lunch wine or for general sipping, excellent value and (here) a conversation piece to fool your friends.

I suggest that if travel takes you out that way, find time to try some local flavor.

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

CELEBRATE HARVEST WITH PRWCA WINE WEEKEND ©


            The last of the annual three major Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance will be over the weekend of October 18-20th. Visit wineries that are members of the Alliance to enjoy the spirit of another vintage in the works and special activities.

Rather than a set-piece tasting event, the format of Wine Weekend is meant to have you check out the wineries and tasting rooms on your own pace and schedule. The PRWCA affiliated wineries list their plans on the PRWINE website and you can use that to plan your own special weekend. From high profile dinners to many musical performances, BBQs, home baked pizza, you are sure to find something for your taste and budget. Many participants have special pricing on wines that weekend. Events have various pricing for each winery and wine club members and general public. See prwine.com for details.

Monday, September 23, 2013

WATER WARS BECOME SOUR GRAPES ©


            Well, well, well has become the pun of the day in Paso Robles. In a response to a long standing issue (throughout the west) of more people and business in a region that is arid much of the year and seeing a multi-year drought, San Luis Obispo County supervisors voted quickly last recently to fix the problem. Quickly is also a word in doubt here. The meeting that finally ended in a unanimous vote to pass an "Urgency" ordinance took nearly thirteen hours. One might question the actual urgency as the weeks long upsurge of public comment, often contentious, made it to the table in a flurry of good intentions that something needed done. But did it? Is the real issue turning water into wine or should that be whine?

There is well founded doubt that the measure passed - basically a two year (semi) moratorium on new well development - meets the test of urgency status. To many, the verdict was returned before the case was heard and legal action to block the result is considered likely. Many feel (and data seems to support) that the problem calls more for local action than a one size fits all county wide approach. Some support water districts in the limited areas of actual concern. That also has some problematic concerns; cost, power of larger owners and administration among them.

An underlying cause is a long standing and in some cases very deep rift between pre and post winery era residents of the area. There is no doubt that wine has been the driving economic engine of the county, especially "north" county (above the pass known as Cuesta Grade) and the rural western parts of SLO County. Much of that land was sparse cattle range or used for irrigated crops such as sugar beets and alfalfa.  When grape growing became a more profitable use of their property, many turned to growing wine grapes or sold their land to commercial winery operations. It is the second use that is  central to the current kerfuffle.

Not to over simplify, the large concentration of wineries around Paso Robles are split in a couple of ways. There are (Hwy 46) groups on the east and west sides of town. There are more on the west but those on the east side tend to be larger. The land is rolling pasture and lends itself to larger parcels but is water poor. Growers on the west side tend to higher yields per acre, more mechanized production methods and sell a lot of the grapes and juice to outsiders - large case production wineries. More than half juice produced in the county goes somewhere else.

West siders tend to be much smaller operations, estate style growers who produce smaller lots of wine and sell bottles direct to consumers rather than through the wholesale distribution chain. They support hands on growing methods, biodynamic techniques, low yields and are frequently dry farmed. They are also normally more expensive, sometimes considerably so. It is up to the consumer to determine the value but realistically the economics of two tons per acre vs. five makes it necessary.

East siders are more prone to drip irrigation both from necessity and to support larger crops. They also need water for frost protection. California has an unusual system of water allocation which I'm told rests on old Spanish law that was used in early days of the state. Basically, what is under your land is yours. Typically, the old timers had fairly shallow wells to support stock and residential use. Those irrigating crops might just drill more wells where they planted.

Without a lesson in geology, the available water in this area is part of the Salinas river system, which runs underground even in dry years. But there are also, in the larger region considered the water basin, many levels of trapped water in lenses. It is not one big puddle and there are many spots where the water is not so good. There are a lot of sulfur springs and other unwanted (for home use) minerals and general hardness. The bigger operations just drill down 1,000' or more, often using perforated pipe gathering whatever is there all the way down. For frost (and fire) protection they often install large holding ponds as well.

A recent 700 acre planting with such holding ponds combined with a few people, mostly in a hot, dry pocket known for low water availability, claiming their wells had gone dry. Many of those were shallow and over twenty five years old and there is a multi-year ongoing drought in the area. That aside, the argument became one of whose straw was in whose milkshake. Despite little evidence that the problem was widespread in the county as a whole, the Supervisors jumped to act in a manner that would affect everyone, even where no evidence of a problem existed.

Add to that the political division of the county, the north being more conservative and the south thus being "left leaning academic pinkos" and a current split in said politics of two from each group on the board with one open seat from a normally Democratic district. Stir in the concept that those representing the south county (by those in the north) are of the ilk that insists the government can and should solve all problems. Then add a pinch of who those urging a water district, thus taxes and fees, might have motivation driven by the dreaded outsiders (corporate, non-resident vineyard owners) rather than the local little guys.

The cherry on the top of all that is that the current unpopular outsider is the one that bought Justin winery and plans to use the above mentioned 700 acres to build that brand. Not only that, he lives in LA(!), is very successful in agribusiness and controls a lot of central valley water. AND he and his wife own Fiji Water, Pom juices, citrus operations and another winery. Certainly he deserves at least a tsk-tsk if not a wrist slap if you side with "wineries are ruining our quality of life" group. To the southern faction these outsiders are known as patrons of the arts.

The northern faction is not terribly fond of the Board of Supervisors generally held views or actions such as a ban on plastic bags for groceries. So, in the process of complaining about the water problem, and the Board taking notice, they are now in the position of needing to wait for two years to file for a permit to drill a new well if theirs go bad. Unless they are in the existing permit pipeline.

To further hoist themselves on their own petard, if their well does go dry they will need to truck in water (expensively) for basic needs. That includes a required compliance with state mandated rural fire protection and their own property insurance. Without such compliance, they would be liable to property seizure for not providing available on-site water to aid Cal-Fire if needed. Nor could they sell their property if the buyer could not obtain insurance due to lack of available water unless they bore the expense of outside water sources.

An unfortunate sidebar on this is some have claimed the inventory of dried up wells is incomplete as many didn't report them. They feared insurance and fire safety would become an issue, some claiming financial hardship in drilling a new well. Short sighted thinking at best if a fire were to take place, likely ending the lifestyle they were trying to protect.

Friday, September 6, 2013

BED & BREAKFAST OPTIONS ON THE RISE ©


            If you aren't familiar with Paso Robles, it is that third largest grape growing area in California and the largest AVA in total acreage. Equidistant from LA and San Francisco, it is also about one and one half hours north of Santa Barbara or south of Monterey. Those areas have long been tourist Meccas and enjoy well integrated lodging and dining operations. This has been the less so in the most central region of the Central Coast, outside of the beach towns and San Luis Obispo which is both the county seat and a Cal Poly college location.

Lodging in general has seen increased demand along the Central Coast. Especially in Paso Robles as tourism has become a more important factor over the past few years. Along with the impact of the wine curious, the area has seen more events and interest for corporate get-aways and conventions. With the recent opening of The Oaks in north Paso, plans for a Marriot brand in Atascadero and a project north of 46 E and Buena Vista (also Paso Robles), the options for those who prefer hotels are adding to the available rooms. Several other established hotels, ranging from limited service national brands to top shelf boutique style, are available and can be viewed at www.pasowine.com and other regional tourism sites.

But many wine country travelers have come to enjoy the bed & breakfast experience and that segment is also growing. The Paso Robles area alone lists 26 B&B operations in the Chamber of Commerce Visit Paso Robles publication. Vacation rental/guest house style lodging is also shown there with 18 properties that may be of interest to you. Additional options at some wineries not listed, including Summer Wood, Justin, Croad and Le Luvier.

Thursday, September 5, 2013

TECHNOLOGY & FLAVOR COMPONENTS: A NEW FRONTIER ©


            To the casual wine drinker, or those who have taken production oriented winery tours, the idea of the wine being made in the field with minimal interference during winemaking is a common impression. But the concept that wines really make themselves and the winemaker but a steward of the process is more romantic than realistic. I'm not saying this is bad but in most cases, in terms of total wine production volume, it just ain't so. Thanks to technology, it is more likely that designing wine taste profiles is becoming more the norm than the exception. This does not mean that small lot and artisan estate wineries will embrace all the available tricks. Most of the larger producers, those that sell juice or blend to a brand standard style, especially boxed, mini-kegged and the under $15 price point magnum segment will use every advantage available. It may in fact give the drinker of those wines a better tasting and more predictable wine.

Fine wine aficionados may find this appalling but they are not really the market for most of the wine made in the world. Nor is the amount of money they spend on wine terribly significant in terms of market share. Growers have to sell their grapes just as if they grew broccoli. While some choose to hand tend clusters at the 1.5 tons/acre and $2,000 per ton level, others may find that four or more $500 tons/acre meets their business model. Knowing your labor makes for outstanding fruit that goes into Pinky Up Chardonnay is great but from a pure farming business standpoint, selling your total tonnage for the same money is also fine. Even if it goes into Suzy Spritzy wine coolers. That helps keep an industry (and agricultural families) alive and well.

I hear my readers running for the spit bucket at that thought but please indulge me. You don't have to drink it (and I don't blame you) but, if everything was La Tache, wine drinkers would be a rare breed. Even so, we love to find a consistent source of daily plonk or decent enough for cooking. More people drinking wine means a healthier wine trade and competition at the introductory price points helps drive that. Well made, consistent bottles under $10 are good for us all.

Those that find they enjoy wine generally move up the price/quality scale, even if only for special events. One thing I've found in years of educating people about wine is that even those who claim not to like wine can tell a well made one from a poor example. Take a novice wine drinker who loves Riesling with some sweetness but "hates" Cabernet. Put a well made Cab and one that is less fine in front of them and they may claim not to like either of them but can usually identify the better example. Also, novice drinkers often expand their range of taste, typically moving from fruity whites to drier reds over time.

In talking with people at trade shows and reading trade publications, I find an increasing attention to profiling flavors. And not just at the introductory level. Gallo, from long ago, used its lab to test potential new brands for consumer flavor preferences and to fine tune the end product. While we are beyond Thunderbird and oak chips in a swimming pool approach, if there is a way to make a wine taste like what the customer wants, winemakers should not fear to use it. Actually, it has gone on for years. Taste is in part determined by choices in soils, clone, exposure, climate, vine density, fermentation methods and aging vessels are common and part of the taste of terroir lore as to why certain areas or wineries offer superior wine.

Now technology is moving forward on several fronts. Barrels have become very costly. When the cost is taken over the three years of typical use, the best of the respected French firms oak cooperage add about $1.50 of cost to each bottle of wine made from a standard size barrel. This is part of the move toward neutral oak (pre-used barrels that impart little flavor) or unoaked versions of Chardonnay. An alternative gaining favor (see prior "Concrete Solution" post) are alternate storage and fermenting vessels such at concrete. That option, as well as purely using stainless tanks, is said to allow more expression of the true fruit flavors.

That may be fine if the fruit has the taste you seek. If not, barrel makers are beginning to offer profiled barrels. Not just by wood grain and level of toast but by infused flavoring components. Another alternative are true oak packs in a spiral design that can be toasted to a desired degree. These offer much more surface exposure to the wine, speeding up the time needed for desired flavor impact. If you want the micro-oxygenation offered by oak but like the cost of used barrels, dropping these in the wine may be the answer.

Taking this another step, companies are now offering products for use in the field that can alter the fruit flavors or yield, color and even clarity of the final wine. These are enzymatic approaches to how the fruit matures and what the grower prefers. Stay tuned as I research more about how this works and hopefully find some examples that are in bottle for you to try.

Monday, September 2, 2013

AND REAL FAIR JUDGES SAY - - - ©


            Those of you that are regular readers know I don't do a lot of back patting for favorite wineries or rate wines. My intent to promote the Central Coast, keep you up to date on industry trends and events in which you might want to participate. One of the big regional events is the Mid State Fair. California has a state fair company that plans the actual State Fair but several area wide mini-fairs. Most wine lovers have heard of the LA, Orange County and State Fair wine competitions due to awards being touted in wine advertising. Each of the regional fairs has its own area tasting as well.

The Mid State event is held in Paso Robles and takes up about half of July. A mix of animals, rodeo, bad-for-you food, a midway and tons of music, it is a very well attended operation. Over 411 thousand attended this year, nearly 68K bought concert tickets (there are free stages as well), concessions raked in over a million dollars and half again that much with the carnival. Livestock sales were in excess of $2MM!  Next year's dates will be Wednesday the 16th through Sunday the 27th of July. The web portal is midstatefair.com.

So, like I said, it is a popular happening and no less so for wine. The judging is open to wineries that can label their product as being Central Coast (or subset) AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). This is bounded by San Francisco County on the north and through Ventura County to the south for counties bordering the ocean. It encompasses over 360 wineries and produces fifteen percent of California's wine grape production. Given that, it is no surprise that the wine competition had 543 entries plus another 157 home wine makers in the non-commercial event. Olive oil, a growth industry in the region had 83 participants and home brewers - a resurgence of which I wrote about recently - had 96 entries.

Now to my point of the disclaimer above. Nearly thirty five years ago, after a stint in wholesaling for a portfolio that covered the cream of the Napa/Sonoma labels, I began Oenotechnique and offered consulting services, staff training, purchasing and inventory controls, and wine list design for restaurants. One day a guy named Gary Eberle happened to dine at one of my accounts and invited me to check out the Paso Robles area on my next California visit. I did a lot of fests and trade shows in those days, seeking less known wines of quality that I could feature for my clients operations. I took Gary's advice and tied a client show & tell trip to a look at Santa Barbara. Neither area had a lot of wineries in those days but I wanted to expand my offerings and have more depth of California selections.

I liked what I tasted and still do. When I  think of the growth in the region, I didn't need all my toes and fingers for SLO and Santa Barbara counties then. Now I could pick a winery a day (including Monterey) and barely get through the available labels! I'm going, therefore, to break with my normal reluctance to indulge in back patting and happily note that the Central Coast Winery Competition "Winery of the Year" was awarded to TA DA - Eberle Winery. The award recognizes the winery that provides the most exceptional selection of wines to the panel. At least five wines must be submitted to qualify. Gary's winners included: Cotes -du Robles Blanc '11, the 2012 Muscat Canelli and Viognier winning Gold and Best of Class, another Gold for the '09 Cabernet and Silver awards for four others, plus three Bronze medals. Those included varietals such as Barbera, Sangiovese and blended Cabernet Syrah. Nice job from a winemaker that has supported and promoted the industry for all the years since we first met. If you are interested in obtaining some of these medal winners, the web site (eberlewinery.com) has an on line store. Or you can take advantage of one of the increasingly rare tasting rooms with complimentary sampling and stop by any day of the week, along Hwy. 46 E in Paso Robles.

Friday, August 2, 2013

HEY, 'ATSA SPICY MEAT-A-BALL ©


            The California wine industry may have had its roots in a Hungarian wanna-be Count. But the tradition of wine making comes primarily from guys whose names end in a vowel. How else can you explain the "Most Happy Fellow" in-a the whole Napa Valley? If you are a Guido (per Jersey Shore)  or just someone who, like everyone as Mario Battali suggests, are a little bit Italian, I have a wine site for you.

Not just wine either. You can be a member too and enjoy updates on Italian focused food stars, restaurants and lifestyle with the Consorzia Cal-Italia at www.cal-italia.org.  While not only about the Central Coast, there are 28 San Luis Obispo, 13 Santa Barbara and 1 Monterey County wineries involved in the group.

A total of 17 counties in California grow Italian varietals; there are 12 red and 9 white grape types made into wine in the state. Some of these are familiar. Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Moscato, Pinot Grigio and the like. But many winemakers are experimenting with less well known types as well and, making some delightful and exciting wines.

If you are a fan of all things Italian, this site can be a good source of travel planning information. There is no lack of examples here on the Central Coast. There are excellent restaurants such as Buona Tavola and Il Cortile Ristorante in Paso Robles. There are a growing number of olive oil producers in the region as well. Italian centric wineries include; August Ridge, Bella Luna, Berardo and Caparone. Even lodging is available in the Tuscan mode at La Bellasera at Hwy. 101 & 46W in Paso Robles.  More info is available on the www.pasowine.com site where there is a search link by grape type. Another good source is available from the Paso Chamber of Commerce at www.visitpaso.com.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

15TH WINEMAKERS COOKOFF HEATS UP AUGUST 10TH ©


            A popular sell out with Paso Robles locals will be the held at the hot spot for food and wine that Saturday, the Events Center complex on Riverside Ave. from 6 to 9 PM. Free parking is available across from the venue entrance.

You must be 21 to attend and tickets are available on line for $75 or a $40 designated driver fee. With over two dozen wineries lined up, there will be plenty of food for the drivers and lots of wine to sample for full pass holders. No dogs or ice chests allowed but blankets and beach chairs are welcome and handy if you plan to catch Julie Beaver & the Bad Dogs musical offerings.

The event is run by the Paso Robles Rotary and benefits the Harlow Ford Foundation, providing Paso Robles High seniors with scholarship funds to help them get started in college. There are both professional judges but you get to vote for people's choice on the various food and wine items. The event has sold out for several years so check out www.winemakerscookoff.com for details and ducats.

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

NO PLAN FOR JULY 6? HOW ABOUT BBQ & CORKED BEVERAGES ? ©


            The shady oaks of Halter Ranch Winery may be just the ticket for your holiday weekend. FORK n' CORKS Fest 2013. The fest will bring people together to enjoy beverages that are sealed with a cork; such as whiskey, gin, wine, port, beer, hard ciders, champagne and more! I suggest moderation vs. a hangover with this potent mix of potables.

Spoiler alert: attendance is limited to 1,200 so jump on www.pasoforkandcorksfest.com or contact Jessica Beattie at (805)781-2750 or via jbeattie@americangeneralmedia.com. AGM is the event sponsor. Tickets are $70 and the Fest begins a 4 and runs to 8 PM.

Tasting samples will be paired with food from twenty local Chefs and restaurants. They are faced with the challenge of being allowed to cook only with the BBQ pit. They will then be limited to garnishing their creations only with pitted fruits and veggies, such as avocados, peaches, cherries, olives and more. Yes, the concept is pull it from the pit, put it on a plate and place with pits in proper perspective. Good thing I withheld imbibing before writing that, or trying to say it. You get to vote on the result and the top three chefs will receive some great swag.

Live entertainment will be provided by Code Blue Band & Three Martini Lunch, rotating on the stage. Live art can be seen while actually produced, painted or sculpted in the large Barn by artists from Studios on The Park (a nonprofit art center), with Central Coast Wine Country as the theme. Profits from sales will benefit the center's programs.

The event will benefit the community oriented MUST! Charities Organization, dedicated to offering resources to those in need in San Luis Obispo’s North County. 

WOPN MOVES TO SANTA BARBARA ©


            The 14th version of World of Pinot Noir has announced its plans for Friday/Saturday, February 28 & March 1, 2014.  The really-really big news is a move to Pinot popular Santa Barbara. Next year's celebration will be held at the Bacara Resort & Spa. Ticket packages went on-sale Monday, July 1st at www.wopn.com. Details on individual event tickets are there as well and be available in early Fall.

 

Pinot Noir producers from the most exceptional and unique regions in the world come together with Pinot pals for a weekend of celebration and education. Past WOPN weekends have seen 2,000 guests attend educational, culinary and tasting events. Pinot Noir bottlings from more than 150 wineries, including Burgundy as well as California and  Oregon, New Zealand and Austria, Australia & Chile, Switzerland and even New York.

 

Friday will feature a pair of seminars, a tasting from producers small and large and wine regions near and far, and a pair of winemaker dinners created by Executive Chef David Reardon. Saturday's schedule includes the popular Burgundy seminar/tasting, the World of Pinot Grand Tasting of over 100 wineries, the Gala Dinner and a featured winery dinner in the Miro Restaurant Wine Cellar.

  

For details about Bacara Resort & Spa, nestled on the bluff and beaches of the Santa Barbara coast between the Pacific Ocean and Santa Ynez Mountains, check their site www.bacararesort.com. It is a lovely property and offers a high end experience that includes golf packages with three local courses. Since I was involved with opening the course and the menu still offers things I named back in the day, I suggest the Santa Ynez Valley's Rancho San Marcos. On the actual wine trail, it is not an ocean view experience but located on a land grant from 1804 and now owned by the man who made Beanie Babies a multi-million dollar household word. It is a wonderful and often quirky test, well worth the visit.

Sunday, June 9, 2013

THIS JUST IN - UPDATE ON BEER FEST ©


            Right after I posted the piece (BarrelHouse Brewery etc.) including the SLO Brewers Guild's upcoming event, more details emerged. The (www.)Seven Sisters Fest (.com) has an event web site. Tickets are now on sale at Boo Boo Records or Tap It Brewing in San Luis Obispo or you can call 1-855-966-7767 for more information. On line tickets are available through Vallitix.com (888-825-5484) as well.

Held at the El Chorro Regional Park & Campground in San Luis Obispo, campsites for the festival can be reserved by calling the 855-966-7767 number. Eight bands have been booked for non-stop music during the July 12-13 dates and over 30 breweries will be offering samples of local craft beers. Local vendors will also be on hand with plenty of food. This is one of several beer centric events that have gaining strength with the renewed interest in small volume micro breweries in the area, as reviewed in the posting noted above.

Saturday, June 8, 2013

CENTRAL COAST REPRESENTS 30% of HOT BRANDS ©


            Over the past decade, Wine Business Magazine has featured a list of "Hot Brands" that spotlight interesting, sometimes unusual, labels that have had an impact in the market or stand out in their approach. The list from 2012 includes five California wineries, three of which are from the Central Coast. Other featured  producers came from Virginia, Washington, Oregon and Texas. The tenth winery honored was from Canada's British Columbia, a 100% varietal Cabernet Franc, a grape that was also seen in three of the selections. Six of the ten were single varietal wines, the others were blends of two to as many as four grapes. Retail pricing was from $13 to $40, total cases made ran from 100 to 10,000.

Another piece of interesting data was alcohol content. In this age of big wines and 15% + levels of alcohol, this group only broke 14% in two wines. One of those was only by .1% and the group averaged 13.5%. The Oregon winery, Troon, blended Viognier with 88% Vermentino and was only 11.5% alcohol. Other rarely seen varietals included Tannat, Lemberger, Tempranillo and Grenache Blanc - the last two being 100% of the variety. The only other 100% varietal wine was made from Syrah, and one of our Central Coast picks, as was the maker of the Grenache Blanc which was also the smallest production in the list.

The least expensive and largest production was also the most blended, featuring Cab, Zin, Merlot and Petit Sirah. Since you might actually be able to find this example, it was 2010 Rosso di Napa from Ca' Momi. I doubt a Napa appellation red will stay on the shelves for long at this price. Good luck! Since WBM  serves these wines at their holiday party and to those at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, you may want to find a friend in the industry and tag along.

I should mention the author of the article (in the February 2012 issue) was Mary-Colleen Tinney. It was a well researched piece and truly offers a wide range of interesting wines. Plus, my guess is she may come from fine stock of the same old sod as I, sla'inte.

Two Shepherds is the producer of the Grenache Blanc, which retails for $24 if you can find one of the only 1,200 bottles made. The maker is a tech industry sales & marketing professional, William Allen, who lives in Sonoma County and blogs at "Simple Hedonism". He was a consumer who decided to make some hobby wine and was introduced to this grape when he tried some made by a Paso Robles vintner. He sourced this 2011 vintage from the Saarloos vineyard in Santa Ynez. It is the source that makes me consider it eligible for my Central Coast focus. Allen works primarily with seven Rhone varieties but sources most of his grapes from Sonoma and has planted his own vineyard. So, he may not be "Central Coast" for much longer but the roots of this wine are.

The Syrah is a 2007 Santa Barbara County version from Kunin Wines. Seth Kunin made 490 cases of this wine, which retails for $30 and was the highest in alcohol content of those selected. While not especially well known, the winery has been in business for fifteen years. His background was in the restaurant business, which landed him in the Santa Barbara area and work in the cellars at Gainey Winery in Santa Ynez. He set out to build his own brand and shied away from the Pinot and Chardonnay focus of much of that area at the time. He liked the elegance of northern Rhone wines that lacked the big smack of many of the versions being made then in Australia and California and sought a cooler vineyard location. That is fairly common in the appellation, which has the lowest degree day ranking of the major California AVAs. While now common, and differing stylistically from the warmer climate versions made in Paso Robles, there were not a lot of Syrah growers for Seth to talk to in Santa Barbara when he started the winery. He credits his old world style on a long growing season and sources grapes from Alisos Vineyard in Los Alamos Valley, Larner in Ballard Canyon and Paradise Road in E Santa Ynez Valley. He has worked with those three growers from the beginning. He holds the finished wines longer than most do these days, as shown by the current release being from the '07 vintage.

The third Central Coast wine is also a 100% varietal - Cabernet Franc - and named Carr for its winemaker Ryan Carr, a former art student. A 2010 vintage, 826 cases were made and it retails for $30. He came into winemaking through his parents move to Santa Barbara and subsequent purchase of some land in the Santa Ynez Valley. They were thinking to plant some vines and have Ryan manage it. After finding out more about vineyard management and the reality of planting and farming a vineyard, they sold the property. But the experience lit a fire under Ryan, who had come to like the industry and farming. So he continued to work the vineyard for the new manager. He also did graphic design for wineries and was allowed to harvest some excess fruit in 1999. Suddenly he was a trash can level winemaker and the result was pretty tasty. He invested in his own winery, makes about 6,000 cases (including premium kegs) of wine and oversees fifteen vineyards in the county, from which he obtains most of his fruit.

Three people with vastly different backgrounds who came to love winemaking in a winding road sort of way. All now considered a Hot Brand for 2012 and making small lots of wine as a personal statement of style and varietal expression.

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

BARRELHOUSE JOINS SLO CRAFT BREW BOOM ©


You may remember a few years back when home brewing and craft beers were all the rage and brew pubs popped up everywhere? Many people found out brewing their own was fun but not worth the time it took to clean up everything. Finding friends to help you sterilize the bottles was about as easy as finding one with a pickup truck and those who'd help you move. But they still enjoyed beer with a style different than what was in the typical store reach-in. The other problem was the movement got enough traction that the big boys started to notice and started either their own in-house labels that would compete in that segment or just bought the micro-brew brand. Then they proceeded to make more, if less well made, versions of that brand until they killed it.

Thus, that (very tiny) piece of the beer market went into a slump for awhile. Suddenly there seems to be a resurgence of interest in craft brews and the pubs that go with them. That certainly is the case along the Central Coast and especially in San Luis Obispo county. The upcoming Firestone-Walker Invitational, hosted by one of the larger and better known established breweries in the area, is again a sold out event, drawing an international group of malt and hops fans and brewers from around the world.

SLO county, which benefits from having both a Cal Poly campus and lots of guys with the previously mentioned pickup trucks as potential end users, has seen an average of two new brew pub openings per year since 2008. This included a rebirth of Dunbar and a relocated SLO Brew, Tap It, Einhorn Beer Company, Figueroa Mountain, Solvang Brewing, Manrock, Pismo Brewing and Orcutt Brewing. The latest group has focused on "north county", or the Paso Robles area vs. those closer to the actual town of San Luis Obispo. These include Cambria Brewing Company, Paso Robles Brewing, Molly Pitcher and the open if not quite finished BarrelHouse operation. The latter is the largest of the newbies and is within sight of the Firestone-Walker location, just off the 101 junction with 46W. Firestone has also undergone a renovation to add space for the brewing component but also a larger dining and tasting room facility.

BarrelHouse is the brainchild of a local contractor, able to build out the brew house at a reasonable cost. He also benefitted from an oft used trick in the recent expansion, buying used equipment from failed operations from a world-wide search and reselling some of that to the competition. Even the passing of other local brands in the early 2000s has led to their old parts and pieces finding use in new homes.

If you are a fan of small batch beers, and can't find a scalper with tickets to the Firestone event, head to the San Luis Brewers Guild's first annual Seven Sisters Fest, July 12-13, at El Chorro Regional Park They also will hold the annual Brews & Bites event on August 31 on the Mission Plaza in SLO. The group does not appear to have a web site but there is a Facebook page that lists upcoming events and details.

I haven't tasted them all, but I can tell you there are some amazing specialty beers being made in the area in a variety of styles. Some of those require extended barrel ageing and rare ingredients and are not generally seen in the open market. If you are in the area, go direct to the source and taste some great beers, often available with tasty grub as well.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

"VINO" SPRING ISSUE IS OUT AND ABOUT ©


            The Paso Robles area wine lifestyle magazine, VINO is out and found at many local tasting rooms. One feature of this thrice yearly publication has been focusing on six winemakers in the Paso AVA, the "Rockstar" selections for each issue. I've been present at the previous two tasting events that marked the launch of those editions and enjoyed the one on one time with the winemakers profiled. My postings on this, if you haven't seen them, are available in the archives.

I was out of town when the newest offering came out but quickly located a copy and read it with interest. The magazine is a product of Paso Robles Press, with articles by a varying selection of contributors as well as staff writers. A major change may be in the offing, as revealed in the A Word From the Publisher lead in piece. Jeremy Burke stated that the current format is unable to truly provide all the information available about as dynamic a wine region that has developed in Paso. A VINO Weekly may be forthcoming, though details were not disclosed. He did, however, solicit story concepts and actual stories from the readership. If that interests you, send an email to Jeremy - publisher@pasoroblespress.com.

If you can't locate a copy of the magazine, learn more about the following Rock Star Winemakers at the web sites that follow. Caliza Winery's Carl Bowker (www.calizawinery.com); or the four guys at Oso Libre (www.osolibre.com) - Jeff Freeland, Chris Behr, Jeff Fandrick & Michael Barreto; Stanger Vineyards' J P  French (www.stangervineyards.com); Blake Kuhn from Clayhouse Wines (www.clayhousewines.com); Matt Ortman, at the recent addition to Pleasant Valley, Villa San-Juliette Vineyards & Winery (www.villasanjuliette.com); or J&J Cellars' (also Pleasant Vly) Maureen Qualia (www.jjcellars.com).

Monday, May 20, 2013

THIR(S)TY ONE YEARS OF PASO WINE FEST ©


            The center piece of the Paso Robles Wine Alliance annual event schedule is Wine Fest Weekend, the subject of my posting on March 22. And yesterday (May 18) was the day of the central event, celebrating its thirty first year. It actually out dates Paso Robles becoming designated as an American Viticultural Area by one year. The three day weekend event will be ending as I write this and nearly every winery in the PRWA is offering Fest related specials, as was also done Friday with many winemaker dinners taking place that night as well as the reserve tasting and auction.  Forty two wineries picked a single wine for the tasting, broken into four categories; Library, Reserve, White & Rose and Futures. Several local restaurants provided food to accompany the selected bottlings.

An auction followed the tasting, with a lucky few adding a case of unreleased, rare older vintages or reserve editions to their cellar. Prior to the Saturday Grand Tasting, local winemakers offered a one hour seminar on the Paso Robles AVA. By 11:30, as the seminar ended, the length of the street along the City Park was already filled with main event ticket holders. Those with early (premium level) entry passes anxiously waiting to pick up a glass and looking at the guide map to find their choices among the sixty three wineries pouring samples.

That number represents about one half of the PRWA members, who were also manning their tasting rooms. It is an incredible effort. Many of those pouring were also featuring music or BBQs etc. at the winery as well as taking part of the park tasting. Streets were closed, shuttles run, security team in place, police presence (mild), volunteers taking tickets/checking ID and answering questions, water/bread/cheese stations and the band in place. Also the food trucks and restaurants offering complimentary bites, porta- potties, first aid, information & lost and found booths.

The gates opened at noon but a lot of people had already made new friends while in the line, comparing notes or asking about other's knowledge of their wines of interest. In my case, a future blogger who may move to the area. A new twist this year was placing wineries in areas of the primary style of what they make. Of course many producers offer crossovers of this scheme and blends are popular as well. But, Rhone, Burgundy, Zinfandel, Bordeaux type varietal groups were located to allow you to concentrate on a favorite grape as much as possible without having to wander all over the two square block sized park. People seemed to think it was generally helpful.

My point of entry took me between Zin and Bordeaux areas while those going through the other glass station's route entered via Rhone. In my post mentioned above, I explained how I approach trying to make the best use of more wines than it is possible to taste. I'd noted the wineries I had in mind in the guide and circled them on the map. Some selections were those I've not tasted and others were visits to old friends - I was able to get to about six locations per hour and twenty three total visits. Using the 4S's (sniff, swirl, sip & spit) method (generally), I was able to sample about four dozen wines. My only suggestion here is that there was no standard use of rinse water, dump buckets or spittoons. And many people just don't like the idea of spitting things in public. I guess they didn't play baseball as kids. Nor, luckily, do they indulge in that other favorite past time common in the big league. But I digress.

The only option in many cases was to dump on the grass. The PRWA had promoted, and did a good job of servicing, public purified water stations and asked people to stay hydrated and bring reusable water bottles. I did so and had my own source of rinse/drinking water and support the idea on several levels. The forecast for the day started out with possible 100 degree temperatures. It turned out to be a pleasantly breezy 80 something and the tasting booths generally offered partial shaded areas throughout the day. Still warm for drinking any alcohol and the dehydrating effects it has. I did not see a lot of others with reusable containers but the water stations were used with wine glasses by many.

If you have read my postings in the past, you know my efforts are not geared toward wine rating. I can say that I was highly impressed with both the variations within style and the interesting and very high level of quality of the wines I tasted. Primarily I tasted reds with a refresher white here and there and sticking to one or two  wines per booth. There are a couple of labels I would mention in this case. I'd been impressed the first time I tasted them and this chance didn't change my mind; RN (Roger Nicolas) Estate wines are made by a former chef/restaurateur from France.  His focus is on food friendly wine from Bordeaux style blends, which include Syrah in some wines. They are elegant and lower in alcohol than many wines made on the Central Coast. Hoyt Family Vineyards is another small producer that holds up well across the range it makes. I was drawn to them because of my exposure to wineries in the Malibu area, where they grow their estate Chardonnay. They now have a tasting room in Paso and use local grapes for much of their red production, made by Carol Hoyt.

Also, by luck of where I stood, I was walked through the full range of Niner wines by Amanda Cramer, the winemaker, and the winery's vineyard guru. That included a Grenache rose' in a dry style and a refreshing version of Sauvignon Blanc that were my only samples of those styles for the day. It was nice to see that level of attention to the tasting crowd being paid by top level representatives from the winery. I also caught up with some Aussie friends I'd worked with at another winery and who moved to the new Broken Earth operation a year ago. Winemaker Chris and do-it-all wife Ursula Cameron were at the booth and while catching up, reviewed their latest efforts. Chris has made a lot of well received wines in this and other areas and now has a historic estate property to work with. The Tierra Rejada ranch included one of the first large, modern commercial vineyard planted in the area and provides over 500 acres of Harold Schwartz's original 2,500 acre spread. Schwartz was also one of the founders of the Wine Fest. With enough Petit Verdot to play with, he has done some varietal bottlings, which is not that common. You might enjoy checking them out if you have the opportunity.

Even after the main crowd joined in at 1 PM, the flow was better than I expected. People were polite in taking their sample and standing aside to allow others to access the table and, a few popular brands sometimes a bit crowded, there was little need to wait to make a selection. Plus, the tables were quite well staffed with informed help, so those wanting to linger or discuss did not become a problem. The other interesting thing to me, as I solicited comment from other tasters, was how few people were locals. The younger crowd was often from nearby but the more likely serious wine buyers I met were from Sonoma, Sacramento, LA, Fresno, Bakersfield and several from out of state. They were here, and in hotels and restaurants, for several days and bought tickets for the related events and visited several wineries while here. All good stuff for the area economy.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

A CONCRETE SOLUTION TO WINEMAKING ©


            It has been several weeks since Micah Utter was gracious enough to spend some time with me. I should apologize for taking so long to getting this posted on "Vinewright" but I've been off the grid doing some travel. All I have to say about that is, if you plan to fly - pack a big lunch for all those delayed and cancelled flights.

I recently read about a revival of the use of concrete wine making vessels by some very toney Italian small lot producers. Well, it turns out they aren't the only makers of excellent wines who are riding this wave. Pun intended, since Micah is a surfer who also happens to know a lot about custom shaping of concrete. I heard about him and his Vino Vessel, Inc. (www.vinovessel.com) operation, located on the south side of Paso Robles, during the WiVi trade event that was described here a few articles back.

So, Through the Grapevine sent its intrepid reporter (moi) to get an exclusive on this cutting edge idea. Little did I know that several equally edgy and innovative winemakers have embraced the concept. Small batches of some very nice wines are sleeping peacefully here on the Central Coast and other growing areas, wrapped up like Jimmy Hoffa!

Currently, Vino Vessel has designed and produced forms for eleven various fermenting and storage tanks as an alternative to wood barrels. While not inexpensive (they require extensive design and engineering input), the better oak versions of barrels topped $1,000 each a few years back. Stainless steel storage vats, and certification for fabrication techniques also makes for a serious outlay of capital. You may know that many smaller producers actually rent tank space for storage for larger wineries with excess volume, rather than purchasing those high ticket items. It has been reported that wineries plan to put a large part of winery improvements into increasing that aspect of their facilities in 2013. There are even some tank farms that simply offer a place to keep the juice as a sideline of the wine industry.

Micah's available containers are sized from 70 gallons up to 1,305, coming in an interesting mix of shapes and concepts. The company has the ability to design custom enclosures for nearly any idea with which a winemaker might wish to experiment. But it is hard to imagine a shape or size that isn't available other than bigger versions for larger producers. Examples include a pyramid and the "hippo" model, one of two oval styles, which maximizes the surface area that comes in contact with the wine. Specifically, that relates to skin contact, the more juice surface that is exposed to the cap - primarily grape skins that form a layer when forced to the top of a tank by CO2 during fermentation - the better the extraction of tannin and color. Ideally, if impractical, a large flat shallow pool would work very well.

The hippo idea was the first style built and beta tested by Peachy Canyon and Chronic Cellars in 2007. It required some special engineering, a special formula for the concrete mix and curing process and, inclusion of reinforcing mesh. The result led to new design ideas and sales that have grown to include local wineries such as Linne Calodo, Epoch and Stolpman.

The Vino Vessel allows micro-oxygenation, a neutral (no extraction) flavor component that helps in the expression of the fruit and are easy to clean and sanitize. "There is no food in concrete", Micah quotes one user. Thus, the tanks are not prone to aid unwanted critters making a home in them. Concrete also has excellent thermal retention, avoids hot spots found in some upright styles, offers a slow rise in temperatures and needs no temperature controls such as those on jacketed stainless tanks.

While not in widespread use, use of concrete as a winemaking option is on the rise and works well for small operations and those liking to try new concepts and experiments. If you have the opportunity, try a wine made in a Vino Vessel and see what you think. In Paso Robles one easily found example is the 2011 Viognier at the Peachy Canyon tasting room at W46 and Bethel Rd. You may also inquire at Chronic Cellars if they have a current sample done in a Vino Vessel.

Monday, May 13, 2013

CENTRAL COAST WINE CLASSIC DETAILS ANNOUNCED ©


            Save the dates for a wine weekend at the beaches, July 11-14. In addition to being one of the longest running (29 years) wine fests it boasts the longest title of any wine appreciation function of which I am aware. The San Simeon, Shell Beach & Avila Beach California Central Coast Wine Classic  (or SSSBABCCCWC, for which I offer no acronym) will be taking place from Hearst Castle on the north (opening night dinner Thursday) to inland areas of Edna and Arroyo Grande Valleys (for the Cycling Classic) on Friday. A pre-release barrel tasting, also on Thursday afternoon, will take place at Avila Beach Lighthouse Suites. The San Simeon dining option on the 11th includes six courses prepared by a half-dozen guest chefs from the Central Coast as well as Yosemite's Ahwahnee Hotel.  

The Avila Beach Golf Resort is the central location for many of the tastings and symposium offerings. Dolphin Bay Resort & Spa will be the site of a winemakers dinner, featuring Justin Vineyards' wines on Friday evening. Also on Friday, an outdoor VIP dinner dance, hosted by Napa and Central Coast vintners will be the main draw at Avila Beach Resort. On line information and a full listing of events (www.centralcoastwineclassic.org) is available and advance registration and information is available from Archie McLaren at 805-544-1285 or by email to archie@slonet.org.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

SANTA BARBARA VINTNERS' FESTIVAL 2013 INVITES YOU ©


            Santa Barbara is a deservedly popular relaxation destination for the those close by and from far away. Looking back some thirty years, to my early days in the wine trade, there wasn't a lot to see when I first visited the region. Things had changed a great deal within five years and grown exponentially by the time I worked in the area a dozen more years down the road. Even then (pre Sideways) I could enjoy a glass of Frank Ostini's selection of homemade Pinot Noirs and a slice of local ostrich at Hitching Post II  while nearly alone at the bar. Now, about 40% of the nearly 700 wineries on the Central Coast are located in Santa Barbara County. And 40% of the tourists are lined up for a picture in front of the Hitching Post! It seems like the Buellton to Lompoc corridor sprouts a new Pinot Noir brand every other week. But that's not bad.

Even better, the wines rarely disappoint and are often wonderful. I was able to taste a few of the newer (and established) brands at the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association (www.sbcountywines.com) tasting table at the WiVi trade show recently. I look forward to a greater exposure at the upcoming Vintners' Festival , April 19-22nd. Billed as the Ultimate Spring Wine & Food Festival, over 100 wineries will be pouring, local cuisine will be center stage and live music will be offered in a vineyard setting. All this, plus the fun of meeting new wines and making new friends for only $75 pp. The ticket also gives you access to a four day "visa" pass to a dozen area wineries over the entire weekend for only $25 vs. the regular tasting fees. 

The location is the  Santa Ines Mission grounds in Solvang, marking the return to the site where it first began thirty years ago. But there are is a long list of related events. From special tasting to winemaker dinners, something is happening all over the county. Details and tickets are available on line at the address above as well as information links to many of the local vendors involved. Head to The American Riviera for a long weekend of  wine, food & fun.

Monday, April 8, 2013

GOOD NEWS FOR GROWERS & VINTNERS FROM 2012 ©


            The incoming reports point to last year as having been one of the most successful  vintages ever. From a business standpoint this has led to much optimism about the future and additional investment in both wineries and vineyards. There has also been an uptick in transactions of both real estate and winery brands. It has also seen upward movement in popular pricing as consumers seem to be willing to experiment with new brands and less well known varietals at a bit higher retail sticker. The "reluctance" ceiling for a daily quaff is now more in the $11 to $20 range than the previous $6 to $11.

Some thumbnails from the crush report show that; yield was up, total tonnage was 20% higher than 2011. Price per ton was 21% higher than last year. Growers and estate style winery operators translate this as; last year I grew 100 tons and got 120 in 2012 with an increase in price from $1K/ton to $1,210 for a total of $145,200 this year vs. $100K, a 45% bigger bottom line, than 2011.

Sounds good but causes some to recall 2005, the former record holder which started a cycle of juice glut that hurt pricing. But last year the demand resulted in California wineries importing nearly 600K gallons of bulk wine. Meanwhile demand continues to grow and in the segment mentioned above, meaning buyers increasingly seek the better growing areas rather than staying with brands that are supported by Central Valley plantings.

Both Cabernet and Chardonnay, already the mainstay grapes by demand, continue to sell at higher numbers of cases. Pinot Noir has not slowed, seeing a 45% growth in tonnage harvested while Malbec went from under 9K to more than 18K tons. Even that wasn't enough as sales also grew for the competitive Argentinean brands. Another red that is being planted in hotter regions is the Nero d' Avola (popular in Sicily) where its use in proprietary Italian labels has been successful for off-premise stores. The big surprise is the Muscat/Moscato segment seeing huge demand and requires South American and European import of juice to satisfy consumers. That despite the 15% increase in California tonnage (177K) crushed in 2012.

January is usually a soft month for retailers and on-premise traffic. Yet stores report a 7% dollar increase year-over-year and the direct to consumer efforts saw a 4% gain. I should point out the data is polled from large food and drug store purveyors and doesn't necessarily reflect smaller markets and the fine wine segment. Those stores, which don't exist in all states, reflect an 80% bias for domestic wines and 20% import sales. Again, in their pricing model, imported wine is not the value priced competition in the prized "fighting varietals" market as they once were. Well made inexpensive wines from California have closed the gap in the .750 and upper tier mags and boxes in terms of the price to quality relationship. The lowering in the value of the dollar has also helped our export sales and American wines are finding new markets, such as China.

Monday, April 1, 2013

WiVi WOWS AT MARCH GATHERING - DAY TWO ©


Yes, there is more to report on WiVi and I'll attempt to focus on the items of general interest to you, the consumer.  First up was the Keynote speaker. Peter Faricy runs the entire Amazon Marketplace operation and told us all about a new place for you to purchase wine. They have opened a Wine Store on the site and are rapidly signing up wineries who offer you the opportunity to shop at Amazon and add a bottle or two of vino to your book, music or other selections and check out a single cart vs. going to multiple sites. From the activity at their trade show booth, interest is high in this new way to sell direct to consumer. They currently may ship wine purchases to seventeen states (the winery fulfills the shipping order) and are adding more as the needed paperwork is completed.

The morning general session was a panel discussion of "Quality vs. Quantity" among a winemaker, viticulturist and vineyard manager. For my audience, the important message was a caution re: tons per acre. The cachet of low yield making better wines does not hold up in research. As one presenter noted, "If low yield is good, is no yield better". Given the vast differences in vine density and vigor of the vines from rootstock choice, soil and moisture, pounds per vine is perhaps the best new measure. Filling the trellis, i.e. maximizing the area of cultivation, is key to a balanced vineyard and that is a product of canopy management. That provides the proper combination of sun and shade/air circulation that allows individual clusters of grapes to evenly ripen. So, now you are armed with some "stump the tasting room" staff questions.

Sessions on pests, and vineyard practices from the ground up to the canopy (viticulture) and new product demonstrations were held in the afternoon. The final enology session was the fun one for this writer and of interest to you, the wine drinker. It also gave me a chance to catch up with panel moderator Lance Cutler. Former winemaker at Gundlach-Bundschu, a wine I represented at wholesale, he now contributes to the hosting Wine Business Monthly publication. I'd also worked with Justin's wine production guru, Fred Holloway, in the past and had met another panelist, Guilliaume Fabre of L'Aventure, during a professional wine society tour a few years back.

It was a comparative tasting of similar blended reds from three regions. Look for Lance's article on this in a future edition of WBM. The group ran from 2006 to 2010 in vintage and $40 to $95 at retail. Primarily blended reds of the Bordeaux style, L'Aventure added a significant (and glass coating) amount of Syrah. One set was from Paso Robles. This included Isosceles '09 from Justin, L'Aventure  Estate Cuvee '10 and Robert Nicolas' (RN Estate) Cuvee de Trois Cepages '09. As with all the wines tasted, extensive notes on every aspect of production, soils, barrels, crushing and fermentation etc. were provided and discussed.

Napa offered Cain Five '07, a Howell Mountain (88%) Cabernet from Robert Craig and a red blend that included Sangiovese - Bacio Divino '06. From Washington came Baer Winery's Merlot and Cabernet Franc focused Ursa '10. Also, Rasa Vineyards '09 In Order to Form a More Perfect Union and Two Blondes Vineyard Red '09 from Andrew Will.

The drill for the tasting was to identify regional character. The short version of the consensus was that Paso and Napa differed in structure, primarily from the acid and tannin evident in them. Both areas had moderate to deep coloration and generally shared anise and dark berry notes to the nose. The Napa wines had distinctly more tannic attack, a drier and more aggressively chewy texture than those from Paso Robles. Paso showed softer tannins but also a hold on the acid balance that made them more accessible. They retained aging potential but were approachable for being youthful. All the wines were provided pre-poured with about two hours of air time.

The wines from Washington (to me) seemed to have less central defining character than the other regions. They were interesting, well made and differed individually within the group. They were also much nicer than many of the attempts I recall from earlier days of red wine experiments from that area. Maybe Lance's article will tie them together after more thought. But at this point, I saw them as different from Napa and Paso wines yet doubt I would carry over a true recollection that would lead to me identifying a Washington wine based on these varieties in a blind tasting.

All in all, the inaugural WiVi Central Coast was a fun and informative success. I look forward to the 2nd Annual version and believe it can become an important part of the wine trade calendar.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

WiVi WOWS AT MARCH GATHERING, - DAY ONE ©


Under the co-hosting umbrella of Wine Business Monthly magazine and Precision Ag Consulting, the first annual WiVi, Wine & Viticulture Symposium and Tradeshow, more easily known as WiVi , kicked off the two day event bright and early on March 19th. The event was also supported by nearly thirty businesses who were participating sponsors. Held at the Paso Robles Event Center, the trade show and sessions filled the two main commercial display buildings with additional exhibitors in a central tented area. Another building housed the finale comparative tasting event. Attendees filled most of the remaining space!

The (paraphrased) stated mission of the effort - which is already in planning for the second annual version - is to present region-specific content and problem solving information via the resources and knowledge available from industry experts and educators as well as Wine Business Monthly and Precision Ag Consulting staff. That includes a wide range of experts in all aspects of the wine trade, from dirt to marketing, primary and continuing educational options and a statistical database on all things wine-ish.

While the focus of this blog is consumer and travel based information, much of the event was related to production and wine making products and services. It was not an event that many of my readers would be likely to attend - but I'll give you some reasons that might change your mind. It is a great way to better understand what all goes into the bottle you open as well as to rub elbows with grape growers and winemakers. There are also tasting events and seminars of more general interest. Even some of the tech based education seminars may relate well to home gardeners who are battling bugs and birds.

This format does not lend itself to long descriptions, though there is a lot to discuss. So, here are some highlights and sound bites of interest to my usual audience. Day one started out with a panel overview of what is happening on the Central Coast in terms of business. Gallo's Sr. Director of Marketing talked about how that company has been increasing brands, production facilities and vineyards in the region. This relates to you, the end user, in ways of which you are probably unaware. First, Gallo is a far different company than the one your parents knew. But they remain the 800 pound gorilla (albeit a more friendly-fuzzy one) in terms of leading trends and marketing, including research and data collection. They have the boots on the ground to do so and have many "graduates" of the system spread throughout the wine world. FYI, Gallo is now 65 brands and growing, covering most market sectors in terms of styles and pricing. Of the thirty largest wine producers, only six make in excess of 10M cases annually and Gallo (72M cs) sells 25% of the 284M cases those thirty represent. It is not uncommon for people to drink and enjoy a Gallo product and not even know it.

So, when Gallo says we on the Central Coast have a long way to go in becoming a market presence, people listen. Simply by reading this blog, you are among the cognoscenti in terms of wine knowledge by regional style. The take-aways of note were; east of the Mississippi, "Central Coast" may mean Tampa or Hilton Head; Syrah is fruit forward, inexpensive Australian wine in a box; California is more label sexy (could be Napa/Sonoma) than Central Coast; they have heard of Monterey (golf) and Santa Barbara (kid looking for cool college), but not Paso Robles or know that the entire area between the first two towns is covered in grape vines - and great wines.

Master Sommelier and Kimpton Hotels wine program director, Emily Wines seconded much of the above. Many of the company's restaurant operations are located in the east. She had surveyed her staff and related some of the responses to, "What is your impression of Central Coast wines". A few were on point and others brought a laugh. But it was obvious that they were neither well known nor thought of as a major factor in their primary market. Both of these presenters provided a good view of what needs to be done to ensure the Central Coast stands out among the 30,000 different wines (by bar code indicators) already on the shelves.

Overall, the state of the business is sound. Last year was generally good across California and saw continued growth in the Central Coast. The area is now at nearly 700 wineries with the state pushing through the 8,000 level being possible this year. Wineries indicate they are putting money into their operations and buying equipment, especially storage and fermentation tanks. They also saw significantly increased sales and profitability in 2012, which looks back to prior vintages, and the year itself was considered a great vintage for quality and quantity.

If wines released in 2012 are an indicator, with more area Wine Spectator Top 100 rated wines than Napa, last year's offerings should be worth the wait. What was grown here for you to enjoy in 2014? Chardonnay was 40% of production with Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir tied for 2nd at 21% each. Further down the line, and even behind Syrah for reds, was Zinfandel. I would recommend you continue to keep that variety from this area on your radar. Also look for Rhone whites and increasingly available experiments with lesser known reds (Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Tempranillo) , and whites such as Albarino.

Then, lunch was served! Offered within the trade show space, it added to the chance to learn more and network with vendor representatives. Since my background is hospitality, I need to give some kudos to local "Cahoots" catering for an excellent job of handling the morning coffee & pastry, delicious (and plentiful) on site lunches and tasting time yummies.

Afternoon sessions were divided into a viticulture series on water usage and an enology section of problem solving in the winery. Panel participants included a well known and respected group of educators and scientists. Many came from the extensive California university system, which presented the PM kick off session "Beautiful Minds" with presenters from several of the schools offering "V&E" (viticulture and enology) degree programs and led by local legend, winery (15th largest) owner, Jerry Lohr. Lowell Zelinski PhD of hosting Precision Ag Consulting also led a general session on the 2012 growing season.

The day ended with a two hour reception and wine tasting. The set up allowed you to taste by AVA, with seven growing areas having pouring tables. Often the labels were changed out as bottles were emptied, allowing the crowd to return for new selections and get a great overview of the wines available and contrast them by growing locale.