WATER WARS BECOME SOUR GRAPES ©

            Well, well, well has become the pun of the day in Paso Robles. In a response to a long standing issue (throughout the west) of more people and business in a region that is arid much of the year and seeing a multi-year drought, San Luis Obispo County supervisors voted quickly last recently to fix the problem. Quickly is also a word in doubt here. The meeting that finally ended in a unanimous vote to pass an "Urgency" ordinance took nearly thirteen hours. One might question the actual urgency as the weeks long upsurge of public comment, often contentious, made it to the table in a flurry of good intentions that something needed done. But did it? Is the real issue turning water into wine or should that be whine?

There is well founded doubt that the measure passed - basically a two year (semi) moratorium on new well development - meets the test of urgency status. To many, the verdict was returned before the case was heard and legal action to block the result is considered likely. Many feel (and data seems to support) that the problem calls more for local action than a one size fits all county wide approach. Some support water districts in the limited areas of actual concern. That also has some problematic concerns; cost, power of larger owners and administration among them.

An underlying cause is a long standing and in some cases very deep rift between pre and post winery era residents of the area. There is no doubt that wine has been the driving economic engine of the county, especially "north" county (above the pass known as Cuesta Grade) and the rural western parts of SLO County. Much of that land was sparse cattle range or used for irrigated crops such as sugar beets and alfalfa.  When grape growing became a more profitable use of their property, many turned to growing wine grapes or sold their land to commercial winery operations. It is the second use that is  central to the current kerfuffle.

Not to over simplify, the large concentration of wineries around Paso Robles are split in a couple of ways. There are (Hwy 46) groups on the east and west sides of town. There are more on the west but those on the east side tend to be larger. The land is rolling pasture and lends itself to larger parcels but is water poor. Growers on the west side tend to higher yields per acre, more mechanized production methods and sell a lot of the grapes and juice to outsiders - large case production wineries. More than half juice produced in the county goes somewhere else.

West siders tend to be much smaller operations, estate style growers who produce smaller lots of wine and sell bottles direct to consumers rather than through the wholesale distribution chain. They support hands on growing methods, biodynamic techniques, low yields and are frequently dry farmed. They are also normally more expensive, sometimes considerably so. It is up to the consumer to determine the value but realistically the economics of two tons per acre vs. five makes it necessary.

East siders are more prone to drip irrigation both from necessity and to support larger crops. They also need water for frost protection. California has an unusual system of water allocation which I'm told rests on old Spanish law that was used in early days of the state. Basically, what is under your land is yours. Typically, the old timers had fairly shallow wells to support stock and residential use. Those irrigating crops might just drill more wells where they planted.

Without a lesson in geology, the available water in this area is part of the Salinas river system, which runs underground even in dry years. But there are also, in the larger region considered the water basin, many levels of trapped water in lenses. It is not one big puddle and there are many spots where the water is not so good. There are a lot of sulfur springs and other unwanted (for home use) minerals and general hardness. The bigger operations just drill down 1,000' or more, often using perforated pipe gathering whatever is there all the way down. For frost (and fire) protection they often install large holding ponds as well.

A recent 700 acre planting with such holding ponds combined with a few people, mostly in a hot, dry pocket known for low water availability, claiming their wells had gone dry. Many of those were shallow and over twenty five years old and there is a multi-year ongoing drought in the area. That aside, the argument became one of whose straw was in whose milkshake. Despite little evidence that the problem was widespread in the county as a whole, the Supervisors jumped to act in a manner that would affect everyone, even where no evidence of a problem existed.

Add to that the political division of the county, the north being more conservative and the south thus being "left leaning academic pinkos" and a current split in said politics of two from each group on the board with one open seat from a normally Democratic district. Stir in the concept that those representing the south county (by those in the north) are of the ilk that insists the government can and should solve all problems. Then add a pinch of who those urging a water district, thus taxes and fees, might have motivation driven by the dreaded outsiders (corporate, non-resident vineyard owners) rather than the local little guys.

The cherry on the top of all that is that the current unpopular outsider is the one that bought Justin winery and plans to use the above mentioned 700 acres to build that brand. Not only that, he lives in LA(!), is very successful in agribusiness and controls a lot of central valley water. AND he and his wife own Fiji Water, Pom juices, citrus operations and another winery. Certainly he deserves at least a tsk-tsk if not a wrist slap if you side with "wineries are ruining our quality of life" group. To the southern faction these outsiders are known as patrons of the arts.

The northern faction is not terribly fond of the Board of Supervisors generally held views or actions such as a ban on plastic bags for groceries. So, in the process of complaining about the water problem, and the Board taking notice, they are now in the position of needing to wait for two years to file for a permit to drill a new well if theirs go bad. Unless they are in the existing permit pipeline.

To further hoist themselves on their own petard, if their well does go dry they will need to truck in water (expensively) for basic needs. That includes a required compliance with state mandated rural fire protection and their own property insurance. Without such compliance, they would be liable to property seizure for not providing available on-site water to aid Cal-Fire if needed. Nor could they sell their property if the buyer could not obtain insurance due to lack of available water unless they bore the expense of outside water sources.

An unfortunate sidebar on this is some have claimed the inventory of dried up wells is incomplete as many didn't report them. They feared insurance and fire safety would become an issue, some claiming financial hardship in drilling a new well. Short sighted thinking at best if a fire were to take place, likely ending the lifestyle they were trying to protect.

BED & BREAKFAST OPTIONS ON THE RISE ©

            If you aren't familiar with Paso Robles, it is that third largest grape growing area in California and the largest AVA in total acreage. Equidistant from LA and San Francisco, it is also about one and one half hours north of Santa Barbara or south of Monterey. Those areas have long been tourist Meccas and enjoy well integrated lodging and dining operations. This has been the less so in the most central region of the Central Coast, outside of the beach towns and San Luis Obispo which is both the county seat and a Cal Poly college location.

Lodging in general has seen increased demand along the Central Coast. Especially in Paso Robles as tourism has become a more important factor over the past few years. Along with the impact of the wine curious, the area has seen more events and interest for corporate get-aways and conventions. With the recent opening of The Oaks in north Paso, plans for a Marriot brand in Atascadero and a project north of 46 E and Buena Vista (also Paso Robles), the options for those who prefer hotels are adding to the available rooms. Several other established hotels, ranging from limited service national brands to top shelf boutique style, are available and can be viewed at www.pasowine.com and other regional tourism sites.

But many wine country travelers have come to enjoy the bed & breakfast experience and that segment is also growing. The Paso Robles area alone lists 26 B&B operations in the Chamber of Commerce Visit Paso Robles publication. Vacation rental/guest house style lodging is also shown there with 18 properties that may be of interest to you. Additional options at some wineries not listed, including Summer Wood, Justin, Croad and Le Luvier.

TECHNOLOGY & FLAVOR COMPONENTS: A NEW FRONTIER ©

            To the casual wine drinker, or those who have taken production oriented winery tours, the idea of the wine being made in the field with minimal interference during winemaking is a common impression. But the concept that wines really make themselves and the winemaker but a steward of the process is more romantic than realistic. I'm not saying this is bad but in most cases, in terms of total wine production volume, it just ain't so. Thanks to technology, it is more likely that designing wine taste profiles is becoming more the norm than the exception. This does not mean that small lot and artisan estate wineries will embrace all the available tricks. Most of the larger producers, those that sell juice or blend to a brand standard style, especially boxed, mini-kegged and the under $15 price point magnum segment will use every advantage available. It may in fact give the drinker of those wines a better tasting and more predictable wine.

Fine wine aficionados may find this appalling but they are not really the market for most of the wine made in the world. Nor is the amount of money they spend on wine terribly significant in terms of market share. Growers have to sell their grapes just as if they grew broccoli. While some choose to hand tend clusters at the 1.5 tons/acre and $2,000 per ton level, others may find that four or more $500 tons/acre meets their business model. Knowing your labor makes for outstanding fruit that goes into Pinky Up Chardonnay is great but from a pure farming business standpoint, selling your total tonnage for the same money is also fine. Even if it goes into Suzy Spritzy wine coolers. That helps keep an industry (and agricultural families) alive and well.

I hear my readers running for the spit bucket at that thought but please indulge me. You don't have to drink it (and I don't blame you) but, if everything was La Tache, wine drinkers would be a rare breed. Even so, we love to find a consistent source of daily plonk or decent enough for cooking. More people drinking wine means a healthier wine trade and competition at the introductory price points helps drive that. Well made, consistent bottles under $10 are good for us all.

Those that find they enjoy wine generally move up the price/quality scale, even if only for special events. One thing I've found in years of educating people about wine is that even those who claim not to like wine can tell a well made one from a poor example. Take a novice wine drinker who loves Riesling with some sweetness but "hates" Cabernet. Put a well made Cab and one that is less fine in front of them and they may claim not to like either of them but can usually identify the better example. Also, novice drinkers often expand their range of taste, typically moving from fruity whites to drier reds over time.

In talking with people at trade shows and reading trade publications, I find an increasing attention to profiling flavors. And not just at the introductory level. Gallo, from long ago, used its lab to test potential new brands for consumer flavor preferences and to fine tune the end product. While we are beyond Thunderbird and oak chips in a swimming pool approach, if there is a way to make a wine taste like what the customer wants, winemakers should not fear to use it. Actually, it has gone on for years. Taste is in part determined by choices in soils, clone, exposure, climate, vine density, fermentation methods and aging vessels are common and part of the taste of terroir lore as to why certain areas or wineries offer superior wine.

Now technology is moving forward on several fronts. Barrels have become very costly. When the cost is taken over the three years of typical use, the best of the respected French firms oak cooperage add about $1.50 of cost to each bottle of wine made from a standard size barrel. This is part of the move toward neutral oak (pre-used barrels that impart little flavor) or unoaked versions of Chardonnay. An alternative gaining favor (see prior "Concrete Solution" post) are alternate storage and fermenting vessels such at concrete. That option, as well as purely using stainless tanks, is said to allow more expression of the true fruit flavors.

That may be fine if the fruit has the taste you seek. If not, barrel makers are beginning to offer profiled barrels. Not just by wood grain and level of toast but by infused flavoring components. Another alternative are true oak packs in a spiral design that can be toasted to a desired degree. These offer much more surface exposure to the wine, speeding up the time needed for desired flavor impact. If you want the micro-oxygenation offered by oak but like the cost of used barrels, dropping these in the wine may be the answer.

Taking this another step, companies are now offering products for use in the field that can alter the fruit flavors or yield, color and even clarity of the final wine. These are enzymatic approaches to how the fruit matures and what the grower prefers. Stay tuned as I research more about how this works and hopefully find some examples that are in bottle for you to try.

AND REAL FAIR JUDGES SAY - - - ©

            Those of you that are regular readers know I don't do a lot of back patting for favorite wineries or rate wines. My intent to promote the Central Coast, keep you up to date on industry trends and events in which you might want to participate. One of the big regional events is the Mid State Fair. California has a state fair company that plans the actual State Fair but several area wide mini-fairs. Most wine lovers have heard of the LA, Orange County and State Fair wine competitions due to awards being touted in wine advertising. Each of the regional fairs has its own area tasting as well.

The Mid State event is held in Paso Robles and takes up about half of July. A mix of animals, rodeo, bad-for-you food, a midway and tons of music, it is a very well attended operation. Over 411 thousand attended this year, nearly 68K bought concert tickets (there are free stages as well), concessions raked in over a million dollars and half again that much with the carnival. Livestock sales were in excess of $2MM!  Next year's dates will be Wednesday the 16th through Sunday the 27th of July. The web portal is midstatefair.com.

So, like I said, it is a popular happening and no less so for wine. The judging is open to wineries that can label their product as being Central Coast (or subset) AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). This is bounded by San Francisco County on the north and through Ventura County to the south for counties bordering the ocean. It encompasses over 360 wineries and produces fifteen percent of California's wine grape production. Given that, it is no surprise that the wine competition had 543 entries plus another 157 home wine makers in the non-commercial event. Olive oil, a growth industry in the region had 83 participants and home brewers - a resurgence of which I wrote about recently - had 96 entries.

Now to my point of the disclaimer above. Nearly thirty five years ago, after a stint in wholesaling for a portfolio that covered the cream of the Napa/Sonoma labels, I began Oenotechnique and offered consulting services, staff training, purchasing and inventory controls, and wine list design for restaurants. One day a guy named Gary Eberle happened to dine at one of my accounts and invited me to check out the Paso Robles area on my next California visit. I did a lot of fests and trade shows in those days, seeking less known wines of quality that I could feature for my clients operations. I took Gary's advice and tied a client show & tell trip to a look at Santa Barbara. Neither area had a lot of wineries in those days but I wanted to expand my offerings and have more depth of California selections.

I liked what I tasted and still do. When I  think of the growth in the region, I didn't need all my toes and fingers for SLO and Santa Barbara counties then. Now I could pick a winery a day (including Monterey) and barely get through the available labels! I'm going, therefore, to break with my normal reluctance to indulge in back patting and happily note that the Central Coast Winery Competition "Winery of the Year" was awarded to TA DA - Eberle Winery. The award recognizes the winery that provides the most exceptional selection of wines to the panel. At least five wines must be submitted to qualify. Gary's winners included: Cotes -du Robles Blanc '11, the 2012 Muscat Canelli and Viognier winning Gold and Best of Class, another Gold for the '09 Cabernet and Silver awards for four others, plus three Bronze medals. Those included varietals such as Barbera, Sangiovese and blended Cabernet Syrah. Nice job from a winemaker that has supported and promoted the industry for all the years since we first met. If you are interested in obtaining some of these medal winners, the web site (eberlewinery.com) has an on line store. Or you can take advantage of one of the increasingly rare tasting rooms with complimentary sampling and stop by any day of the week, along Hwy. 46 E in Paso Robles.