Monday, April 7, 2014

HOW MANY & WHERE ARE THEY? ©


          American wineries that is. Well, that depends (thank you Mr. Clinton) on what is really is, an actual winery or a virtual one. Yes, the virtual world has infiltrated even the crafting of fine wine. In fact, about 15% of the total wineries in the U.S. meet the definition, with 1,200 labels. The term is used for those wines produced in a facility that is legally bonded (a tax thing) under another winery name. This has become a growth industry, with large operations custom built simply to provide wine making space for virtual use. Primarily, the appeals to smaller producers for whom the huge capital needs of a full wine making facility don't make financial sense.

The answer to my question is, in terms of total wineries and where they are located is; just under 7,800 and everywhere. Yes - there are 7 in Alaska now. Talk about ice wine. Even Mississippi (state motto, "Thank God for Alabama") has one - 'Bama has 15, roll Tide!

Not surprisingly, California leads the pack with 47% of all the wineries in the nation and one quarter of those being virtual. Washington, with 690 wineries easily outpaces Oregon's 566, but 30% of the wines made in Oregon are made in someone else's bonded winery. That trend has not been so popular in Washington, where only 4% is made virtually. The number of total wineries drops quickly from there. The other 47 states are responsible for only 36% of the wine made in America. Two things to understand are that in many states wine often consists of non-grape fermented fruits or hybrid/native grapes not typically made in "Big Three" states. Also, the larger production in states with lots of wineries does not mean the grapes (or juice) is from there. In fact it can be from Australia or any other area when production requirements in high volume wine brands exceed available local tonnage.

New York is in fourth place but with nearly 250 fewer wineries than Oregon and another hundred down is Virginia with Texas close behind. Pennsylvania (175) leads a pack of those with 100 or more wineries, including states as diverse for wine grapes as Colorado and N Carolina. Thirty seven states have fewer than 100. Right in the middle of that pack are New Mexico and Idaho with 47 & 46 respectively. I mention them because they have been making some nice wines for quite a while and from traditional fine wine varietals.

Gruet in NM has made a value priced, traditional method sparkler and now offers Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Syrah and Pinot Noir still wine. They have also expanded the selection of bubbly to include limited releases and rose' styles. In Idaho, where wine making history goes back to 1864, the majority of the wineries are in the Snake River Valley AVA, close to the Oregon border. Founded in 1976, Ste. Chapelle is probably best known in the national market and helped put the state on the wine map. It has become the largest volume winery in the state, perhaps best known for fruit forward, soft styles of Riesling but also respected for Bordeaux varieties. The move to grapes from other crops on the property led the charge that established Idaho as a player among NW growing areas. Examples of a couple of the many and where they are.

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